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17th July 2008 CTRO site stuff

Street racing posts

There are an increasing number of street racing related posts appearing on this forum. The owners of this site wish to state that they do not endorse street racing or the use of excessive speeds on public roads in any way, shape or form. In the future posts deemed to be of an irresponsible manner may be deleted.

We all know the capabilites of the car, but to brag about dangerous or near miss incidents is irresponsible. We are getting interest from many companies wishing to offer members discount and to keep these offers coming in we need to keep to a certain level of standards. Details of these discount schemes will be published in the future. Thanks for your time. 8)

17th July 2008 CTRO site stuff

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17th July 2008 FN2 How-To Guide's

Changing standard headunit

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=146380

Author: alltherouge

Below is the list of the parts required to change the Dashboard to suit an aftermarket Headunit;

39116-S30-G01 POCKET, AUTO RADIO 1
77251-SMG-E00ZA PANEL ASSY., AUDIO *NH167L * (NH167L GRAPHITE BLACK) 1
77256-SMG-E00 BRACKET A 1
77257-SMG-E00 BRACKET B 1
91551-SE0-003 BOLT, FLANGE, 5X7 2x
93913-14280 SCREW, TAPPING, 4X12 (PO) 6x

You need to change the brackets for each side as the original brackets are part of the double din unit – cant be used again.
You also need to supply your Chassis Number as Dashboard Shades differ!
The Dealer would need to change this for you also.

Old stereo

New stereo

 

 

17th July 2008 FN2 How-To Guide's

Replacing smashed foglight

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=151166

Author: Telsa

Okey dokey. Like a few owners of the FN2 Civic, after a long motorway journey I arrived home, to discover that the offside fog light had shattered into oblivion. There are a good few recorded incidents of this, especially on the Civinfo forums, where loads of people have been plagued by it. Loads of suggestions as-to why this happens have been put forwarded, weak glass, shape of fog, etc. Honda say they will not pay out for mine, because it looks like it was hit by a stone, and thus is not warrantee claimable.

Quotes from the two nearest Honda dealers to me (Reading and Maidenhead) were telling me that I was looking at a lot of money to replace. Mostly labour charge, as it involves removing the entire bumper! (Great design Honda ;-))

Now, I rarely use my fogs, but having driven around with black duct-tape over the broken one for far too long, I decided that I’d enlist a mate, and do it ourselves. I bought an official Honda fog light (minus the bulb for £88) Scouring the Internet hasn’t helped me find a tutorial to fit, however! So I decided to create one, as I went along… And now posting it here for anyone who finds it helpful. Here goes! For those who are squeamish, look away now!

Here’s the culprit.

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Here’s a mombo tool-kit I nicked from a mate helping me. All we needed in the end was a 10mm Ratchet, Phillips screwdriver, flat-head screwdriver, a torch, and (from me) a lot of courage…

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First off, we need to get the arch-trim detached from the front bumper. This is attached by a couple of clips like this.. In total, there are 6 of these clips that need removing.

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Use a flat-head screw driver to pop them out.

Here is the underneath with them removed.. (fear my Paint-circling sk1lz00rz)

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Ok. There are 4 screws, 2 ratchet bolts, and 6 clips along the underneath that need removing. You need to get behind the rubber scrape-protector things to get most of them out.
All of them are along this line, attaching the bumper to the rest of the car, and are easy to find. (apologies of lack of under-car pictures!) Slightly gormless looking mate optional.

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Once you’ve removed all the screws & clips, you need to do the scariest part.. Start pulling trim. All of the side arches are held on by clips. You have to pull fairly hard, and firmly, then a clip will pop (your heart will stop the first time this happens) and keep pulling until your side-trim looks like this.

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This was taken whilst we were actually putting it all back together.. So that’s why the fog is mysteriously better 😀

You are hunting for this screw, which helps attach the bumper to the rest of the bodywork. Undo it. (repeat on both sides) No comments about side-wall wear please 😀 The car likes to take corners enthusiastically, so hey, who am I to stop it?

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Everything that needs to be undone, is now undone.. The whole front bumper is now held on by the clips of doom that you had to pop to get the wheel-arch bit off. Start at one side of the bumper, and gently pull out until the clips pop. Repeat all the way around (At this point, make SURE someone is holding the bumper, as the law of gravity states that it will go down at this point.. As you’re removing the bumper, the only things left attaching it to the body are the 2 electrical wires going to the fogs. They unplug easy-peasy.

Hurrah! The front of your 6 month old car is now exposed…

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Paused at this point, apparently mine was sprayed with some sort of tape tape still on! Not sure if this is usual, but we thought it was strange…

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The fog-light is now held in by 1 bolt, which comes easily off with your 10mm Ratchet-wonder-device.

Insert new foglight, and reverse process, making sure that you re-attach the wires going to the fogs, and that you push all the body panels back onto their clips before screwing it all back together. You should have this many parts!

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Re-assemble, test foglights, and have a well earned beer.

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Job’s a goodun.

Edit : Attached the PDF foglight install instructions from Honda we were working off. Bad quality, and in 10 billion languages, but hey.

 

 

17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Fitting a VTEC light

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=10570

Author: tazr

You need:
– Wire – 18AWG min.
– Tap Splices
– 1 – 5mm LED (pick a color)
– 1 resistor (330, 470, 680, 1K OHM, you pick)

Here goes…
Remove the cowel in the passenger footwell under the glovebox.

Then you will see a shiny silver box with a lot of wires going to it… that’s the ECU. On the middle plug (it’s white) you should see a green wire with a yellow stripe in the top center pin. That’s the VTEC wire. You need to put a tap splice on it…. trace it back a few inches (there is only 1 green/yellow stripe wire) and put the tap in place.
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The other wire you need to find is a suitable ground.
Figure out where you want the LED to be. I wouldn’t put it somewhere high in the car, it’ll be on more than you think. Put it somewhere you can see out of the corner of your eye. Drill a 4.8/5mm hole and put the LED holder in (no need to glue)… be careful where you pick, you need to be able to get to it from behind.
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Time to set the LED up. You need to put the resistor in series with the ground lead of the LED (for those who don’t speak electronics, you need to hook up one resistor lead to the shorter lead on the LED and the other end to the wire you grounded). I used heat shrink tubing, but soldering also works. I wouldn’t use electrical tape. Wire the other lead from the LED to the wire you tapped into the ECU with. Boom…. done.
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17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Removing door cards

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=238

Author: JonC 

Hi, Here comes a description of how to remove the door cards of our cars !
Read and follow step by step then everything will work without damaging the
door card, Good Luck everybody !

A: Behind the “handle” here you will find a small hole in which you put a small screwdriver or something else and push inwards, this will result in the “silver” part of your handle will pop out. Behind this you will find a couple of screws….it is only the top one you need to loosen.

B: At the point of the arrow you can very carefully pry open this whole panel with a flatface screwdriver, behind this you will also find a number of screws….only loosen the one at the far left. Now the door is free from the screwing part….;-)

C: Where the C-arrow points you will find an opening in the plastic….this is where you use a flatface screwdriver to carefully pull outwards (towards you ) which will make the doorcard pop out piece by piece…then just follow the edge of the card around so you can feel that the card loosens totally from the door.

Now comes the tricky part, take the card and pull it upwards along the thick arrow at the top…when you feel that the card has let go from the “lockpin” you carefully pull it away from the a-pillar, this will loosen the card even more from the door. Now the only thing left to do is disconnect the card from the door ( the electricwindows and the “dooropener” ) by pulling easily at the connections.

Now you should have your doorcard in your hand, hopefully !
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17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Replacing front brake pads

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=11529

Author: dieselpower

Here’s my ‘How To’ guide on replacing the front brake pads. It is a fairly easy job (takes me 10-15 mins per side) but if you don’t know what you are doing leave it to your Honda dealer!! The braking system is a vital part of the car so if in doubt don’t do it!

Tools Required

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Alloy wheel lock nut key
19mm wheel brace
12mm socket and ratchet handle
19mm open ended spanner
8mm open ended spanner (not essential)
Trolley jack, axel stands and a piece of 4×2
Copper grease
Brake calliper rewind tool (not essential)
A piece of rope/string/cord
New brake pads

Step 1

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Slacken wheel nuts on both wheels

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Place piece of 4×2 behind rear wheels
Ensure handbrake is tightly on

Step 2

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Locate jack under jacking point behind front bumper
Raise the car

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Place axel stands under side jacking point and slowly lower car onto stands

Step 3

Remove road wheel and store safely

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Remove brake fluid hose retaining bolt

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Remove bottom calliper bolt. If bolt spins use 19mm spanner to hold nut on next to rubber boot

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Rotate calliper up and tie to suspension securely making sure not to strain fluid hose

Step 4

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Slide old pads out of calliper. An 8mm open ended spanner can be used to help ease the pads out. Take care not to damage the disc

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Remove the metal shims for the pads. There are two on one pad and one on the other. Clean these with an old rag

Step 5

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Push piston fully into calliper. If you don’t have a rewind tool you can use a G-clamp or with a lot of force push the piston with your hands. Make sure to support the back of the calliper as not to damage it

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Step 6

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Add an even coat of copper grease to the back of the new pads

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Refit the metal shims adding an even coat of copper grease to each shim
Make sure to get no grease on the friction material or brake disc

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Fit new pads into calliper

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Untie rope and lower calliper over the new pads

Step 7

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Replace 12mm bolt into calliper and tighten

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Replace 12mm bolt into fluid hose bracket and tighten
Replace road wheel and gently tighten wheel nuts

Step 8

Repeat steps 1 to 7 for other side of car

Step 9

Raise car slightly and remove axel stands
Slowly car to the ground
Torque wheel nuts to correct level

Step 10

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Check brake fluid level in reservoir and ensure it’s between min and max.
Replace reservoir cap
Pump brake pedal until pedal feels firm again

Step 11

Clean hands and make cup of tea
Admire your handy work! :D

Step 12

Roadtest the car to ensure everything is ok. Make sure to follow bedding-in instructions supplied with the pads. Applying full braking force to new pads can damage and warp your discs. 

 

17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Full ICE install guide

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=106655

Author: gringosteve

I am about to embark on a DIY full stereo install, so decided to try and read as many guides on the subject as possible.

I found loads of fragmented bits of information, and decided it might be worth cobbling it all together into a single document which can evolve ino the Mother of all ICE guides.

So far I have nicked guides and pics from the following people (Please shout if you take offence). These are the people that made the guide possible..I just stuck it all together in a neat order.

I will add to this as i do my own project though…

The following people have had their stuff used in this guide:

Dalco
Twiglet
Jon C
Schizophonic
College Hills Honda
sk8flex
TazR

There is a chunk of info still missing, but im sure people will be able to help

1) How to take the plastic interior sill piece apart for the amp wires to go down

2) How to construct a decent tweeter mount behind the wing mirror

3) Better info on disconecting the door handle cables

4) Fitting ISO adapter and facia apapter

So if you have any info you wish to be added please PM me… and I will add it in.

Hope this helps people?

Steve

http://www.djlomax.co.uk/stereofitting.doc

right click save as..

 

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