General How-To Guide's

How-To guides not specific to either model of Civic

6th June 2016 Buyers Guides, CTRO Site FAQ, EP3 How-To Guide's, FAQs, FN2 How-To Guide's, General, General How-To Guide's, How-To Guide's, Uncategorized

Oil – The Definitive Guide

The CTRO Definitive Oil Guide.

Which oil do I use? It’s a question asked time and time again. Well now, you can find out here, with our definitive oil guide.

oil

It appears that Honda are using 10w-40 for running in. After the run-in period, these are the oils/fluids you should use as per the Manufacturers recommendations.

Lubricant report for: Honda, Civic 2001, Civic 2.0 16V Type R, (2.0 Typ R VTEC),2001-
Manufacturer: Honda Motor Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan
Drive type: f.w.d.
Cylinder capacity: 1998 cc
Power output: 200 HP/147 kW at 7400 rpm

Engine: petrol, 4-stroke, water cooled, 4 valves/cyl.
Capacity: 4.50 liter
Filter capacity: 0.20 liter
Note: Change every 20000 km or 12 months & Check daily

OEM recommendation: Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 0W-20
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 0W-30
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 0W-40
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 5W-30
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 5W-40

Component note: Under severe conditions change fluid every 10000km/6 months.

Transaxle / Gearbox: manual
Capacity: 1.50 liter
Gears forward: 6
Gears reverse: 1
Note: Check every 20000 km or 12 months
Note: Change every 120000 km or 72 months
Note: Check for leaks

OEM recommendation: Year-round Special Honda MTF-II –

Lube group note.
If Honda MTF-II is not available, in emergency cases a motor oil API: SG or SH with viscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 may be used. This can lead to a heavy gear change and excessive wear.

Component note. 
When driving in extreme temp.(>32°C) or when driving with caravan or in the mountains, change fluid every 60000km/48 months.

Power steering. 
Check every 20000 km or 12 months
Special service: Top up only (filled for life).

OEM recommendation.
Year-round Special power steering fluid, Honda.

Lube group note.
Do not use other fluids!

Hydraulic brakes/clutch system: ABS
Capacity: 0.60 liter
Check: every 20000 km or 12 months
Change: every 36 months
Check: check for leaks

OEM recommendation.
Year-round Brake fluid: DOT 3 
Year-round Brake fluid: DOT 4

Cooling system. 
Capacity: 5.30 liter
Check: Every 20000 km or 12 months
Change: Every 100000 km or 60 months
Check: Check for leaks
Special Service: First change at 200000Km, or 120 Mths

Ensure that the API is either SJ or SL for the engine oil. The latest is SL and as these are backwardly compatible it’s best to use the latest spec which is SL.

Hope this helps,

Cheers.
Simon @ Opie Oils. 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1586-oils-fluids-more.aspx

18th July 2008 General How-To Guide's

How to bed in Ferodo brake pads

Original thread here: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=162855

Author: evilowl

As we seem to have lots of people moaning about squeaky brakes, the normal cause is incorrectly bedding them in after fitting. This must be followed to get the best life, the best performance and least squeal from your new pads.

As soon as they have been fitted go and find some quiet country lanes, you don’t want to be doing brake tests with other traffic about.

BEDDING-IN INSTRUCTIONS
To achieve optimum performance from Ferodo Racing brake pads please follow the instructions below:

1) Perform 25 to 30 trial brake applications, each of approximately 4 seconds, using around 50% of normal race pedal pressure. To shorten the procedure applications can be made along the straights as well as through bends.

2) On completion of trial applications return to the pit lane. Inspect the surface of the brake pads from the two wheels which have been working the hardest. There should be evidence of contact over the full pad area but without glazing. The pads are now ready to race.

Whilst we recommend that pads are inspected, if time does not allow this, assuming procedure (1) has been carried out and a short period of time has elapsed to allow the brake system to cool, the pads will be ready to race.

IMPORTANT: to optimize the performance and life of both brake pads and discs, during the bedding-in period heat in the braking system should be built up progressively.

PAD WEAR INSPECTION: brake pads must have at least 2mm of friction material. Excessively worn brake pads must be replaced.

THERMAL PAINT TEMPERATURE CHECK; Where this procedure is used and braking performance is not considered satisfactory: if none of the 3 paints has changed appearance it may be necessary to reduce cooling to the discs. If all 3 paints have changed appearance, it may be necessary to increase cooling to the discs.

As these are instructions for bedding them in on a racetrack, on the road build your speed up to around 50 or 60 mph and (check your mirrors first obviously) gently apply the brakes for around 4 seconds instead. Get the car back up to 50 or 60 and do it again, and keep doing it until you get through all 25 or 30 cycles. Remember it’s not rapid acceleration and deceleration you need, just build heat into the brakes steadily. Park up for a bit and let them cool down for 10 minutes, Then you can go out and give them a good hammering :thumbup:

 

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