How-To Guide's

Want to know how to install a new stereo or perhaps take off your door cards? Well here is the place...

Oil – The Definitive Guide

The CTRO Definitive Oil Guide.

Which oil do I use? It’s a question asked time and time again. Well now, you can find out here, with our definitive oil guide.


It appears that Honda are using 10w-40 for running in. After the run-in period, these are the oils/fluids you should use as per the Manufacturers recommendations.

Lubricant report for: Honda, Civic 2001, Civic 2.0 16V Type R, (2.0 Typ R VTEC),2001-
Manufacturer: Honda Motor Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan
Drive type: f.w.d.
Cylinder capacity: 1998 cc
Power output: 200 HP/147 kW at 7400 rpm

Engine: petrol, 4-stroke, water cooled, 4 valves/cyl.
Capacity: 4.50 liter
Filter capacity: 0.20 liter
Note: Change every 20000 km or 12 months & Check daily

OEM recommendation: Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 0W-20
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 0W-30
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 0W-40
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 5W-30
Year-round API: SJ-EC SAE 5W-40

Component note: Under severe conditions change fluid every 10000km/6 months.

Transaxle / Gearbox: manual
Capacity: 1.50 liter
Gears forward: 6
Gears reverse: 1
Note: Check every 20000 km or 12 months
Note: Change every 120000 km or 72 months
Note: Check for leaks

OEM recommendation: Year-round Special Honda MTF-II –

Lube group note.
If Honda MTF-II is not available, in emergency cases a motor oil API: SG or SH with viscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 may be used. This can lead to a heavy gear change and excessive wear.

Component note. 
When driving in extreme temp.(>32°C) or when driving with caravan or in the mountains, change fluid every 60000km/48 months.

Power steering. 
Check every 20000 km or 12 months
Special service: Top up only (filled for life).

OEM recommendation.
Year-round Special power steering fluid, Honda.

Lube group note.
Do not use other fluids!

Hydraulic brakes/clutch system: ABS
Capacity: 0.60 liter
Check: every 20000 km or 12 months
Change: every 36 months
Check: check for leaks

OEM recommendation.
Year-round Brake fluid: DOT 3 
Year-round Brake fluid: DOT 4

Cooling system. 
Capacity: 5.30 liter
Check: Every 20000 km or 12 months
Change: Every 100000 km or 60 months
Check: Check for leaks
Special Service: First change at 200000Km, or 120 Mths

Ensure that the API is either SJ or SL for the engine oil. The latest is SL and as these are backwardly compatible it’s best to use the latest spec which is SL.

Hope this helps,

Simon @ Opie Oils.

18th July 2008 General How-To Guide's

How to bed in Ferodo brake pads

Original thread here:

Author: evilowl

As we seem to have lots of people moaning about squeaky brakes, the normal cause is incorrectly bedding them in after fitting. This must be followed to get the best life, the best performance and least squeal from your new pads.

As soon as they have been fitted go and find some quiet country lanes, you don’t want to be doing brake tests with other traffic about.

To achieve optimum performance from Ferodo Racing brake pads please follow the instructions below:

1) Perform 25 to 30 trial brake applications, each of approximately 4 seconds, using around 50% of normal race pedal pressure. To shorten the procedure applications can be made along the straights as well as through bends.

2) On completion of trial applications return to the pit lane. Inspect the surface of the brake pads from the two wheels which have been working the hardest. There should be evidence of contact over the full pad area but without glazing. The pads are now ready to race.

Whilst we recommend that pads are inspected, if time does not allow this, assuming procedure (1) has been carried out and a short period of time has elapsed to allow the brake system to cool, the pads will be ready to race.

IMPORTANT: to optimize the performance and life of both brake pads and discs, during the bedding-in period heat in the braking system should be built up progressively.

PAD WEAR INSPECTION: brake pads must have at least 2mm of friction material. Excessively worn brake pads must be replaced.

THERMAL PAINT TEMPERATURE CHECK; Where this procedure is used and braking performance is not considered satisfactory: if none of the 3 paints has changed appearance it may be necessary to reduce cooling to the discs. If all 3 paints have changed appearance, it may be necessary to increase cooling to the discs.

As these are instructions for bedding them in on a racetrack, on the road build your speed up to around 50 or 60 mph and (check your mirrors first obviously) gently apply the brakes for around 4 seconds instead. Get the car back up to 50 or 60 and do it again, and keep doing it until you get through all 25 or 30 cycles. Remember it’s not rapid acceleration and deceleration you need, just build heat into the brakes steadily. Park up for a bit and let them cool down for 10 minutes, Then you can go out and give them a good hammering :thumbup:


17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Refurbishing wheels

Original thread:

Author: Type R me

After alot of time (since i bought her) the shoes were flip 😮 bubbled and kurbed and faded and i added a whole kurbed wheel to the collection!

So after much research and pondering i thought flip it ill do it and have a crack at it myself as ive got till monday off still and the misses is just sitting studying for her last few exams for uni and iam just sitting on my arse :lol: …………

This is the kit you need also so 80,240 and 1200 grade sandpaper.
Wheels before:
Wheels sanded all down with 80 first,then soapy water+240 after:
Wash thoroughly:(found suger soap is good)
Mask off:
Then 1 coat of primer at a time (3 in total):

Right well ive been looking on the site and other places for what colour to go for on the wheels and to be honest i really wanted white but it looked :ymca: and dark wheels do look good on the sliver so,………….

looked at black wheels and to be honest i thought they looked a bit dripspeed (ripseep) off the shelf jobbie so went for honda graphite gray and the pics RLY RLY dont do them any justice cause it was done with a mob camara so shall take pics of them 2moro on car with a decent camara :thumbup:

But the wheel that was WELL flip (kurbed) came out a blinking treat :WOOT

I could not belive how well it work!!
but it is so so true the more effort put into the prep shows in the end product!!!

So for something that would of cost £220+ has cost me £35 and 2days work in no rush

Iam over the moon!!!!
(also found out the civic wheels are eneki’s!)
going to get some coloured wheel nuts tho……………

what colour peps???
red blue ….ect ect?


oh ya sorry forgot to add the instructions………..

once you have let the primer dry for 24 hours wet sand with 1000 grit paper wash and dry again or you can wipe it dry but for best result wash it!

After this you can start painting :thumbup:

One coat a time 3 coats in total with the paint you decided on :wink:

Then allow 20mins to dry till tacky then its time to crack open the tin of lacquer!

This is exactly same as the paint,
3 coats with 10min gap between sparys then FINISHED :WOOT

you can leave for 24 hours or use a hair dryer on it for 30 mins and leave for 8 hours but i would leave it if you can!!!

Then make cuppa T or beer :thumbup: stand back and enjoy your handy work and shiney new none kurbed alloys 🙂

17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Rear bumper & light removal

Original thread here:

Author: paulydixon

It’s probably possible to fit rear lights without removing the bumper, but why bother, it takes minutes to take the bumper off anyway.

First two are located under the rear bumper


Second lot are located under plastic body coloured caps at the point where the lights meet the bumper, 10mm bolts


Next are the three screws fastened into the lower rear splitter


Last screw is located in the upper wheel arch, nipping the bumper onto the bodywork


And hey presto, it almost falls off in your hand. It’s actually easier taking these to bits than french cars


I only really wanted it off so i could try these older lights on, i’m unsure if i like them or not now though…


The lights themselves have 3x 8mm nuts which are easy to remove, they’re accessable by removing the plastic trim in the boot. But they also have 2x 10mm nuts located behind the bumper


Here’s a before, during and after





17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Replacing front brake disks

Original thread here:

Author: Timo 

Firstly use the excellent ‘how to replace front brake pads’ by dieselpower, which can be found here.

In addition to the tools that are needed, you will need an impact driver to remove the brake disk retaining screws.
You won’t need the rope to tie the calliper back as you will be removing it from it’s mount completely.

Carrying on from step 3 in the above ‘how to’, at the point
where the bottom calliper retaining bolt is removed.

After removing the lower calliper bolt, remove the upper calliper bolt and
remove the calliper from it’s mount. If you removed the brake pipe
retaining bolt as in dieselpower’s ‘how to’, you will be able to move the
calliper towards the front of the wing, so it’s not in your way.


You then need to remove the two 17mm calliper mount bolts.
The calliper mount can then be removed. Clean the brake pad spring clips
and apply copper grease to them ready for refitting.


Next you need to remove the two brake disk retaining screws using an
impact driver. It is very difficult to remove these with an ordinary screw


Once removed the brake disk can be replaced with the new one. Important NOTE – Wash your hands before taking the new disks
out of the box and fitting them, to reduce any dirt or grease coming into contact with the disk surface.
If you do get them dirty, clean them with brake disk cleaner fluid.

Line up the two beveled screw holes on the new disk with the
holes on the wheel plate.


Replace the brake disk retainer screws after applying some copper
grease to the threads. Use the impact driver to tighten them fully.

Replace the calliper mount and the brake pads. Using a calliper rewind
tool, refit the calliper over the pads as mentioned in dieselpower’s how to.


Replace the wheel and repeat for the other side.


Important NOTE – When rewinding the calliper make sure the brake fluid resevoir doesn’t overflow. If you think it will either remove some of
the fluid or wrap a towel or rag around the resevoir.

Pump the brake pedal a few times to get the callipers back into position and check brake fluid level, before driving off.

Remember to avoid heavy braking for the first 200 miles, so the disks and new pads can be bedded in correctly.

Hope this is of some help and a huge thank you to dieselpower for the brake pad ‘how to’.


17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Fitting facelift headlights to a prefacelift car

Original thread:

Author: omni & Matty McRae

I’ve decided to put a thread up here because I get quite alot of questions about this from people interested in doing the conversion, so rather than keep having to re-do it all in PM’s, i’ll stick a thread up here and I can just link them.

So, before I start, i’m affraid I don’t have any really detailed photo’s of the nitty gritty bits, so I may have to cross-reference other threads for specific jobs, like removing the front bumper etc. Most of the actual taking apart and putting back together is pretty obvious though, and if you’re the type that isn’t mechanically or electrically minded and struggles with removing a few nuts and bolts, i’d probably recommend you don’t try this conversion ;)

So – Start off by removing your front bumper. (unfortunatelty the guide I used first time I did it now seems to have disappeared forever so maybe someone else provide a link if they know of one)

Then remove the old headlights, its fairly obvious where all the bolts are which hold these in.

I have a list of part numbers and prices of bits which I used for the conversion, they are as follows.

All prices are EXCLUSIVE of VAT

1 x 33101-S5T-E62 – Right hand headlight unit – £80.37 ea
1 x 33151-S5T-E62 – Left hand headlight unit – £80.37 ea
2 x 33115-S84-A11 – HB3 main Beam bulb – £4.02 ea
2 x 33126-S0A-003 – Cover Rubber – £8.44 ea
2 x 33126-S6A-J61 – Cover Rubber – £6.60 ea
2 x 33303-SAA-003 – Indicator bulb holders – £5.45 ea
2 x 33303-S2R-003 – Indicator Orange bulbs – £1.18 ea
2 x 33305-S5A-003 – Side-light bulb holders – £4.85 ea
2 x 33116-SD4-961 – Headlight bulb Holders – (Optional) – £7.49 ea

So thats everything from Honda – which comes to a grand total of £236.80 –

(£278.24 inc VAT)

The reason I say the last bulb holders are optional is because some people reckon you need to buy them and modify them to hold the HID bulbs in, personally I don’t think its necessary, I never used them on mine and they are held in fine just by slightly bending the metal clips.
so you can potentially lose about £20 off that bill. Obviously if you’re not going for HID’s you need them and some H1 bulbs. (34901-SZ3-000 £5.64 ea)

Fit all the bulbs and seals into the light units (If you are using HID then you will need to bend the metal clips slightly to hold in the HID bulb units, but this will all become apparent when looking at it. If you’re not satisfied with bending the clips, you can follow the guide for fitting HID’s to a Facelift found here)

Now for the wiring, when you offer the new lights up you will notice straight off that the plugs for the indicators are different, so far as I know you can’t buy new ones from honda seperately (without the loom!) so I went to a scrapyard and found some suitable ones from another vehicle (just take the bulb holder down with you and have a root round) Same with the plugs for the new main beam (HB3) bulbs, you will need to be a little creative here when sourcing these parts.

The Side lights plug straight on, as do the headlight adjustment motors, but helpfully the plugs for these are part of the same loom, so because the adjustment motors are in a different position on the facelift lights they don’t reach! Easiest thing to do here is to cut the two wires for the sidelight plug and extend them by approx 8 inches so they reach.

Once you’ve found some suitable indicator plugs – cut off the originals and splice on the new ones. (I personally prefer to solder and heat-shrink all the wires I cut and rejoin, but its up to you, you can use connectors if you don’t have a soldering iron.)

Next up, you need to modify the original car headlight wiring, because we’re changing from an H4 Hi/Lo bulb for both headlights and main beam, to seperate bulbs. You have to do this otherwise when you go to full beam the projectors will go out, which is not only rubbish for driving with, but also an MOT failure.

You need a standard 4 pin switching relay, a couple of reels of 8amp cable, an inline fuse (or, as I have done, a relay with integrated fuse) and a few various spade connectors. All available from halfords.

I’ll assume we’re using HID’s here, if you’re not the wiring is the same, but instead of connecting the wires to the HID ballasts, you’ll simply be connecting them straight to the H1 headlight bulbs.

Mount the Ballasts on the inner wings, negative side of both ballasts goes to a suitable earthing point (somewhere on the body or engine which is not painted) Obviously it goes without saying to make sure you keep all wiring away from rotating pulleys and hot bits of the engine…

On the original wiring plug you’ve got 3 wires, one of them will be live when you switch the headlights on, the other two are switchable earths. One of them will be an earth when your in headlight position, one of them will be an earth when you’re in main beam position. You need to identify which is which with a multimeter – I can’t remember what the colour codes are off hand. but I believe they are discussed in Mr Bilko’s thread here

Once you’ve done that, the wire which is an Earth when you’re on headlights is not needed (as these will now be permanently earthed) so you can tape it up and forget it. On the passenger side, find a suitable place to mount the relay.

You wire up pin 30 of the relay to a permanent feed from the battery (Via an inline fuse holder if you don’t have a fused relay) and pin 87 to one side of your mainbeam bulb. On pin 85 you wire in the live feed from the cars original wiring plug and also piggy back this off the positive side of your HID ballast. Pin 86 goes to an earth. Terminal 87 goes to one side of your main beam bulb the other side of the main beam bulb goes to the switchable main beam earth from the original car loom.

The other side is only ever so slightly different – identify which wire is which again from the cars original plug, wire in the live to the positive side of your HID ballast (the other side goes to a permanent earth as above) the switchable main beam earth goes to one side of the HB3 main beam bulb, and for the other side of the main beam you bridge a wire across from Pin 87 on the relay.

for clarity and ease of reference i’ve included Mr Bilko’s wiring diagram here.


Once you’re satisfied everything is working refit the headlights and bolt them in – you’ll have to use the metal bars off the bottom of the old lights – they fit straight onto the new lights – and refit the bumper.

Thats about all I can think of for now, but I will review it later and see if i’ve missed anything.

As I say, I don’t have any detail photo’s unfortunately, once I get going I don’t have the patience for stopping and phtographing every little bit – but here is some photo’s from my original thread – which can be found here – viewtopic.php?f=39&t=118420

Car stripped down

Test fitting headlights

As you can see, I mostly work in the dark, this is because i’m so impatient and cannot possibly wait until the weekend to finish it…

Let there be light.

Bumper back on


 Following this guide here: viewtopic.php?f=112&t=140796&p=1925267#p1925267

Didnt use a relay though as it’s not needed IMO

i couldnt find parts needed, connectors for indicators and full beam bulb holders from scrappy so what i done was bought some bits from halfords to wire it all up. didnt use a relay, just split the possitive feed (red/yellow cable) to the (+) on each full beam and dipped beam bulbs, then the original switchable earth from full beam (red/ blue cable) to the (-) on the full beam and ran a permanent earth to the (-) of the dipped beam to stop them going out when full beam is selected, so taped up the red and white cable as it wasnt needed

I got mini spade connectors and some 8amp wire and a cripming tool/wire strippers from halfords and bullet connectors to join and extend wires. put the mini spade connectors on the pins of the hb3 full beam bulb and the indicators then taped them up to water seal them and keep the cables from coming off.

On the last pics, you can see all i need to do at that stage is twist-fit all the bulb holders into the lights and plug the HID cableing in, with the kit, the wiring for the (+) and (-) are spade connectors so thats why i have spades on the end of my cableing from my split live and perm earth 🙂

was all quite easy really :lol:
















17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Replacing rear brake pads

Original thread:

Author: Mr Bilko!

This is my “How to” method of changing rear brake pads on our CTRs.
If you feel confident enough to take the job on it’s straightforward taking approximately 30 mins.
If you’re unsure then please don’t try this at home because the braking system is the most important safety related issue on the car, and this job requires a moderate skill level in auto technology.

Tools required are:
19mm wheelbrace (the 1 in the toolkit will do) and locking nut key
17mm & 12mm combination spanner
Cars body jack, or preferably a trolley jack
Axle stand(s)
Brake piston wind back tool (not essential) like ‘Franklin TA890’
Brake pad grease

1 Place the car on an even surface with the handbrake on and slacken off the wheelnuts.


2 Chock the opposite side front wheel, using blocks or weights like these if you’re tuff an well ‘ard :lol:


3 Jack up the car and place an axle stand under the suspension arm, then remove the wheel and put it aside. Yes, I know, I’m cheating but a trolley jack makes it easier :wink:
Now release the handbrake.

4 Undo the top and bottom caliper to carrier bolts using the 12mm spanner, and holding the sliding pin with the 17mm spanner.


5 Undo the flexible brake hose mounted to the suspension using the 12mm spanner. (It’s easier if you have a 12mm socket and ratchet)


6 Start to wind back the piston, so that the new and thicker pads will fit in, until a firm resistance is felt. You can also use a G clamp and a pair of mole grips to turn and push the piston back instead of this tool.


7 Make sure the piston looks exactly like this when wound back.
This is because the back of the inner pad has a pip on it that lines up with the piston, so if the piston isn’t at 12 o’clock, it won’t fit over the pads!


8 Here’s that pip.


9 Remove the pads, and when re-fitting, apply a small amount of high melting point grease (copaslip or similar) to the top and bottom of the pads as seen here.


Refit the caliper once the pads are in and then refit everything in reverse order from 5 to 1
Do the same for the other side and that’s the job done and dusted :wink:

As you can see, I’ve not replaced my pads, but illustrated “How to” do them, and hope it explains it to you.
If anyone has any questions feel free to post below or pm me.

17th July 2008 FN2 How-To Guide's

Changing standard headunit

Original thread:

Author: alltherouge

Below is the list of the parts required to change the Dashboard to suit an aftermarket Headunit;

39116-S30-G01 POCKET, AUTO RADIO 1
77256-SMG-E00 BRACKET A 1
77257-SMG-E00 BRACKET B 1
91551-SE0-003 BOLT, FLANGE, 5X7 2x
93913-14280 SCREW, TAPPING, 4X12 (PO) 6x

You need to change the brackets for each side as the original brackets are part of the double din unit – cant be used again.
You also need to supply your Chassis Number as Dashboard Shades differ!
The Dealer would need to change this for you also.

Old stereo

New stereo



17th July 2008 FN2 How-To Guide's

Replacing smashed foglight

Original thread:

Author: Telsa

Okey dokey. Like a few owners of the FN2 Civic, after a long motorway journey I arrived home, to discover that the offside fog light had shattered into oblivion. There are a good few recorded incidents of this, especially on the Civinfo forums, where loads of people have been plagued by it. Loads of suggestions as-to why this happens have been put forwarded, weak glass, shape of fog, etc. Honda say they will not pay out for mine, because it looks like it was hit by a stone, and thus is not warrantee claimable.

Quotes from the two nearest Honda dealers to me (Reading and Maidenhead) were telling me that I was looking at a lot of money to replace. Mostly labour charge, as it involves removing the entire bumper! (Great design Honda ;-))

Now, I rarely use my fogs, but having driven around with black duct-tape over the broken one for far too long, I decided that I’d enlist a mate, and do it ourselves. I bought an official Honda fog light (minus the bulb for £88) Scouring the Internet hasn’t helped me find a tutorial to fit, however! So I decided to create one, as I went along… And now posting it here for anyone who finds it helpful. Here goes! For those who are squeamish, look away now!

Here’s the culprit.


Here’s a mombo tool-kit I nicked from a mate helping me. All we needed in the end was a 10mm Ratchet, Phillips screwdriver, flat-head screwdriver, a torch, and (from me) a lot of courage…


First off, we need to get the arch-trim detached from the front bumper. This is attached by a couple of clips like this.. In total, there are 6 of these clips that need removing.


Use a flat-head screw driver to pop them out.

Here is the underneath with them removed.. (fear my Paint-circling sk1lz00rz)


Ok. There are 4 screws, 2 ratchet bolts, and 6 clips along the underneath that need removing. You need to get behind the rubber scrape-protector things to get most of them out.
All of them are along this line, attaching the bumper to the rest of the car, and are easy to find. (apologies of lack of under-car pictures!) Slightly gormless looking mate optional.


Once you’ve removed all the screws & clips, you need to do the scariest part.. Start pulling trim. All of the side arches are held on by clips. You have to pull fairly hard, and firmly, then a clip will pop (your heart will stop the first time this happens) and keep pulling until your side-trim looks like this.


This was taken whilst we were actually putting it all back together.. So that’s why the fog is mysteriously better 😀

You are hunting for this screw, which helps attach the bumper to the rest of the bodywork. Undo it. (repeat on both sides) No comments about side-wall wear please 😀 The car likes to take corners enthusiastically, so hey, who am I to stop it?


Everything that needs to be undone, is now undone.. The whole front bumper is now held on by the clips of doom that you had to pop to get the wheel-arch bit off. Start at one side of the bumper, and gently pull out until the clips pop. Repeat all the way around (At this point, make SURE someone is holding the bumper, as the law of gravity states that it will go down at this point.. As you’re removing the bumper, the only things left attaching it to the body are the 2 electrical wires going to the fogs. They unplug easy-peasy.

Hurrah! The front of your 6 month old car is now exposed…


Paused at this point, apparently mine was sprayed with some sort of tape tape still on! Not sure if this is usual, but we thought it was strange…


The fog-light is now held in by 1 bolt, which comes easily off with your 10mm Ratchet-wonder-device.

Insert new foglight, and reverse process, making sure that you re-attach the wires going to the fogs, and that you push all the body panels back onto their clips before screwing it all back together. You should have this many parts!


Re-assemble, test foglights, and have a well earned beer.


Job’s a goodun.

Edit : Attached the PDF foglight install instructions from Honda we were working off. Bad quality, and in 10 billion languages, but hey.



17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Fitting a VTEC light

Original thread:

Author: tazr

You need:
– Wire – 18AWG min.
– Tap Splices
– 1 – 5mm LED (pick a color)
– 1 resistor (330, 470, 680, 1K OHM, you pick)

Here goes…
Remove the cowel in the passenger footwell under the glovebox.

Then you will see a shiny silver box with a lot of wires going to it… that’s the ECU. On the middle plug (it’s white) you should see a green wire with a yellow stripe in the top center pin. That’s the VTEC wire. You need to put a tap splice on it…. trace it back a few inches (there is only 1 green/yellow stripe wire) and put the tap in place.
The other wire you need to find is a suitable ground.
Figure out where you want the LED to be. I wouldn’t put it somewhere high in the car, it’ll be on more than you think. Put it somewhere you can see out of the corner of your eye. Drill a 4.8/5mm hole and put the LED holder in (no need to glue)… be careful where you pick, you need to be able to get to it from behind.
Time to set the LED up. You need to put the resistor in series with the ground lead of the LED (for those who don’t speak electronics, you need to hook up one resistor lead to the shorter lead on the LED and the other end to the wire you grounded). I used heat shrink tubing, but soldering also works. I wouldn’t use electrical tape. Wire the other lead from the LED to the wire you tapped into the ECU with. Boom…. done.

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