How-To Guide's

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=106655

Author: gringosteve

I am about to embark on a DIY full stereo install, so decided to try and read as many guides on the subject as possible.

I found loads of fragmented bits of information, and decided it might be worth cobbling it all together into a single document which can evolve ino the Mother of all ICE guides.

So far I have nicked guides and pics from the following people (Please shout if you take offence). These are the people that made the guide possible..I just stuck it all together in a neat order.

I will add to this as i do my own project though…

The following people have had their stuff used in this guide:

Dalco
Twiglet
Jon C
Schizophonic
College Hills Honda
sk8flex
TazR

There is a chunk of info still missing, but im sure people will be able to help

1) How to take the plastic interior sill piece apart for the amp wires to go down

2) How to construct a decent tweeter mount behind the wing mirror

3) Better info on disconecting the door handle cables

4) Fitting ISO adapter and facia apapter

So if you have any info you wish to be added please PM me… and I will add it in.

Hope this helps people?

Steve

http://www.djlomax.co.uk/stereofitting.doc

right click save as..

 

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=79211

Author: LeeH

 

Face lift CTR HID H1 Conversion.

Due to the H1 lamps in the facelift model but H4 retaining spring on the back of the projectors, fitting is not a straight forward plug and play. So please read on.

What is required?

1. Conversion kit available from http://www.hids4u.co.uk/
The guy is called Ian was the best by far of a few companies I contacted. As it worked out he has sold some kits through Mr Bilko via a group buy.

2. A dremmel type tool.
I bought one from ebay for £20

3. Hotmelt glue gun.
Again around £20.

4. Basic hand tools – Small flat head screwdriver and pliers.

5. Stick Velcro pads.

6. Spare set of H1 –H4 plastic adapters from Honda as there is no going back. £20

STEP 1 – Lamp Removal.
Take out old lamp and adapters keeping the old lamps safe in the car with the new adapters for back ups. Do not touch the glass.

STEP 2 – Adapter Mod.
Using a very small screwdriver GENTLY prise the resin and lugs away on the pins on the back of the adapter and pull out.

This is a little tricky but they do come.

STEP 3 – The Tricky Bit.
Using the Dremmel type tool use the thin cutting blade and file out the remaining plastic in the adapter. Mind those fingers!!

STEP 4 – The Vital Bit.
Cut off the rubber grommet and feed in the HID lamp in place.
At this point I will point out the orientation of the lamp is VITAL. Please note is slightly turned to the left.

***Without the correct orientation you will find it difficult to fit into the projector later.***

***** the position of the lamp is INCORRECT in this picture and should be the same angle but turned to THE LEFT*****

STEP 4 – Glue Time.

Hotmelt glue in place without gluing up the lamp. Do this but putting a blob of glue under the lip of the lamp and pressing back down FLAT.

Also glue the rear to stop any other movement.

STEP 5 – The Easy Bit.
Mount the ballast in the engine bay. The only place I could see to put them was near the front shockers.

I secured mine with self adhesive Velcro. WHY? Because I wasn’t sure about drilling through there. I will consult my best bud when I see him next, he’s a mechanic.

This will also allow quick removal if you are like me and clean your engine bay down as the ballasts in this lower are not 100% water proof. Ian does sell a better kit but at a price.

STEP 6 – Fitting Lamps
With the thin brown tube on the lamp facing up GENTLY fit and retain the clip. The one behind the washer bottle is a right slag to do but not impossible.

STEP 7 – Wiring Loom.
Plug in all the wiring. This is as simple as it sounds.

Make sure you get the polarity correct. The red wire on the Honda loom is +ve.

STEP 8 – The Best Bit.
Turn on your new lights and show off to all your mates.

****The colour of the HID lamp here is no way near to what it is in the flesh. This is way bluer*****

I chose the 8K lamps for a Bluer look. IMO I made the right choice they look the nuts with out sacrificing too much light output.

Any questions please post them here to help others.

Cheers

Lee 

Original thread: http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=161420

Author: evilowl

 

As there seems to be a few problems recently with people having issues I thought I would write a quick guide

When you purchase a second hand KPro, the seller will normally upload a map with the immobiliser disabled. This will allow you to plug in the ECU and drive the car as is. You will get the immobiliser key blinking green on the dashboard to tell you it’s disabled. All the time it’s blinking, your insurance is null and void if the car is stolen so you will want to take the car to a Honda dealer so they can recode the immobiliser in the ECU.

Checklist of stuff to take with you:

1. KPro if not already fitted to the car
2. Laptop with the latest version of KManager downloaded from here
3. USB cable for connecting laptop to KPro
4. Both sets of car keys
5. Toolkit if you intend to fit the KPro yourself

To remove the existing ECU and fit the KPro follow the instructions on the Hondata site – basically drop the glovebox and use a 10mm socket set to remove the ECU and cover, carefully unclip the 3 connectors on the ECU

http://www.hondata.com/k20removeecu.html

The map you choose will depend what mods you’re running but I’ll assume it’s a reasonable intake*/exhaust** so I will base this on the k20a2-rsx-coldair map but if not, just choose one of the Euro K20A2 maps and skip the bit about changing the ECU type, or choose a map more suitable for your mods.

When you get to the Honda dealer, you’ll need a laptop running KManager software from the hondata website.

**NB – once you have performed the following steps, the car won’t start, so make sure the car is parked where the Honda dealer wants to work on it first (i.e. their workshop/service area)**

Open KManager on your laptop and select file>open. You’ll get the list of maps that come with the software preloaded. Right click k20a2-rsx-coldair and select “open with” and choose notepad

Change the ECU type from 3 to 2 and click file>save in notepad

Now you can open that map in KManager. From the top menu select Parameters>misc. Here you can enable the immobiliser. Then select Knock/TPS and ensure the knock sensor box is ticked, and also tick the lower box for flashing MIL when knock is detected.

Now save the map by clicking file>save as and choosing a new name for the map (e.g k20a2-rsx-coldair-immob) . You can’t overwrite the existing one.

Plug the USB lead from the ECU into the laptop and put the keys in the ignition, and switch the ignition on (but don’t start the car). If you haven’t ever connected the laptop to the ECU before the laptop will recognise the ECU and will ask for drivers. Choose to install the drivers manually and point the installation directory to the KManager folder (ie c:\program files\kmanager ) and click ok. It will then find the drivers and give you a warning that the drivers aren’t digitally signed but click continue anyway.

When that’s finished, in KManager click Online>Upload. It will take around 60 seconds to upload the map and you will hear a click from the ignition when it resets itself.

Now the Honda dealer can get to work coding the immobiliser. It should only take 20-30 minutes so you should be charged for a maximum of half an hour’s labour at the dealers normal rates plus VAT.

*Reasonable intake = GruppeM, AEM CAI etc
**Reasonable exhaust = decent catback – i.e. Spoon N1, Toda etc