How-To Guide's

Want to know how to install a new stereo or perhaps take off your door cards? Well here is the place...

17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Removing door cards

Original thread:

Author: JonC 

Hi, Here comes a description of how to remove the door cards of our cars !
Read and follow step by step then everything will work without damaging the
door card, Good Luck everybody !

A: Behind the “handle” here you will find a small hole in which you put a small screwdriver or something else and push inwards, this will result in the “silver” part of your handle will pop out. Behind this you will find a couple of screws….it is only the top one you need to loosen.

B: At the point of the arrow you can very carefully pry open this whole panel with a flatface screwdriver, behind this you will also find a number of screws….only loosen the one at the far left. Now the door is free from the screwing part….;-)

C: Where the C-arrow points you will find an opening in the plastic….this is where you use a flatface screwdriver to carefully pull outwards (towards you ) which will make the doorcard pop out piece by piece…then just follow the edge of the card around so you can feel that the card loosens totally from the door.

Now comes the tricky part, take the card and pull it upwards along the thick arrow at the top…when you feel that the card has let go from the “lockpin” you carefully pull it away from the a-pillar, this will loosen the card even more from the door. Now the only thing left to do is disconnect the card from the door ( the electricwindows and the “dooropener” ) by pulling easily at the connections.

Now you should have your doorcard in your hand, hopefully !

17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Replacing front brake pads

Original thread:

Author: dieselpower

Here’s my ‘How To’ guide on replacing the front brake pads. It is a fairly easy job (takes me 10-15 mins per side) but if you don’t know what you are doing leave it to your Honda dealer!! The braking system is a vital part of the car so if in doubt don’t do it!

Tools Required


Alloy wheel lock nut key
19mm wheel brace
12mm socket and ratchet handle
19mm open ended spanner
8mm open ended spanner (not essential)
Trolley jack, axel stands and a piece of 4×2
Copper grease
Brake calliper rewind tool (not essential)
A piece of rope/string/cord
New brake pads

Step 1

Slacken wheel nuts on both wheels

Place piece of 4×2 behind rear wheels
Ensure handbrake is tightly on

Step 2

Locate jack under jacking point behind front bumper
Raise the car

Place axel stands under side jacking point and slowly lower car onto stands

Step 3

Remove road wheel and store safely

Remove brake fluid hose retaining bolt

Remove bottom calliper bolt. If bolt spins use 19mm spanner to hold nut on next to rubber boot

Rotate calliper up and tie to suspension securely making sure not to strain fluid hose

Step 4

Slide old pads out of calliper. An 8mm open ended spanner can be used to help ease the pads out. Take care not to damage the disc

Remove the metal shims for the pads. There are two on one pad and one on the other. Clean these with an old rag

Step 5

Push piston fully into calliper. If you don’t have a rewind tool you can use a G-clamp or with a lot of force push the piston with your hands. Make sure to support the back of the calliper as not to damage it


Step 6

Add an even coat of copper grease to the back of the new pads

Refit the metal shims adding an even coat of copper grease to each shim
Make sure to get no grease on the friction material or brake disc

Fit new pads into calliper

Untie rope and lower calliper over the new pads

Step 7

Replace 12mm bolt into calliper and tighten

Replace 12mm bolt into fluid hose bracket and tighten
Replace road wheel and gently tighten wheel nuts

Step 8

Repeat steps 1 to 7 for other side of car

Step 9

Raise car slightly and remove axel stands
Slowly car to the ground
Torque wheel nuts to correct level

Step 10

Check brake fluid level in reservoir and ensure it’s between min and max.
Replace reservoir cap
Pump brake pedal until pedal feels firm again

Step 11

Clean hands and make cup of tea
Admire your handy work! :D

Step 12

Roadtest the car to ensure everything is ok. Make sure to follow bedding-in instructions supplied with the pads. Applying full braking force to new pads can damage and warp your discs. 


17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

Full ICE install guide

Original thread:

Author: gringosteve

I am about to embark on a DIY full stereo install, so decided to try and read as many guides on the subject as possible.

I found loads of fragmented bits of information, and decided it might be worth cobbling it all together into a single document which can evolve ino the Mother of all ICE guides.

So far I have nicked guides and pics from the following people (Please shout if you take offence). These are the people that made the guide possible..I just stuck it all together in a neat order.

I will add to this as i do my own project though…

The following people have had their stuff used in this guide:

Jon C
College Hills Honda

There is a chunk of info still missing, but im sure people will be able to help

1) How to take the plastic interior sill piece apart for the amp wires to go down

2) How to construct a decent tweeter mount behind the wing mirror

3) Better info on disconecting the door handle cables

4) Fitting ISO adapter and facia apapter

So if you have any info you wish to be added please PM me… and I will add it in.

Hope this helps people?


right click save as..


17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

HID conversions – facelift EP3’s

Original thread:

Author: LeeH


Face lift CTR HID H1 Conversion.

Due to the H1 lamps in the facelift model but H4 retaining spring on the back of the projectors, fitting is not a straight forward plug and play. So please read on.

What is required?

1. Conversion kit available from
The guy is called Ian was the best by far of a few companies I contacted. As it worked out he has sold some kits through Mr Bilko via a group buy.

2. A dremmel type tool.
I bought one from ebay for £20

3. Hotmelt glue gun.
Again around £20.

4. Basic hand tools – Small flat head screwdriver and pliers.

5. Stick Velcro pads.

6. Spare set of H1 –H4 plastic adapters from Honda as there is no going back. £20

STEP 1 – Lamp Removal.
Take out old lamp and adapters keeping the old lamps safe in the car with the new adapters for back ups. Do not touch the glass.

STEP 2 – Adapter Mod.
Using a very small screwdriver GENTLY prise the resin and lugs away on the pins on the back of the adapter and pull out.

This is a little tricky but they do come.


STEP 3 – The Tricky Bit.
Using the Dremmel type tool use the thin cutting blade and file out the remaining plastic in the adapter. Mind those fingers!!



STEP 4 – The Vital Bit.
Cut off the rubber grommet and feed in the HID lamp in place.
At this point I will point out the orientation of the lamp is VITAL. Please note is slightly turned to the left.

***Without the correct orientation you will find it difficult to fit into the projector later.***




***** the position of the lamp is INCORRECT in this picture and should be the same angle but turned to THE LEFT*****

STEP 4 – Glue Time.

Hotmelt glue in place without gluing up the lamp. Do this but putting a blob of glue under the lip of the lamp and pressing back down FLAT.

Also glue the rear to stop any other movement.



STEP 5 – The Easy Bit.
Mount the ballast in the engine bay. The only place I could see to put them was near the front shockers.

I secured mine with self adhesive Velcro. WHY? Because I wasn’t sure about drilling through there. I will consult my best bud when I see him next, he’s a mechanic.

This will also allow quick removal if you are like me and clean your engine bay down as the ballasts in this lower are not 100% water proof. Ian does sell a better kit but at a price.



STEP 6 – Fitting Lamps
With the thin brown tube on the lamp facing up GENTLY fit and retain the clip. The one behind the washer bottle is a right slag to do but not impossible.

STEP 7 – Wiring Loom.
Plug in all the wiring. This is as simple as it sounds.

Make sure you get the polarity correct. The red wire on the Honda loom is +ve.

STEP 8 – The Best Bit.
Turn on your new lights and show off to all your mates.


****The colour of the HID lamp here is no way near to what it is in the flesh. This is way bluer*****

I chose the 8K lamps for a Bluer look. IMO I made the right choice they look the nuts with out sacrificing too much light output.

Any questions please post them here to help others.



17th July 2008 EP3 How-To Guide's

How to prepare your KPro for immobiliser coding

Original thread:

Author: evilowl


As there seems to be a few problems recently with people having issues I thought I would write a quick guide

When you purchase a second hand KPro, the seller will normally upload a map with the immobiliser disabled. This will allow you to plug in the ECU and drive the car as is. You will get the immobiliser key blinking green on the dashboard to tell you it’s disabled. All the time it’s blinking, your insurance is null and void if the car is stolen so you will want to take the car to a Honda dealer so they can recode the immobiliser in the ECU.

Checklist of stuff to take with you:

    1. KPro if not already fitted to the car
    2. Laptop with the latest version of KManager downloaded from here
    3. USB cable for connecting laptop to KPro
    4. Both sets of car keys
    5. Toolkit if you intend to fit the KPro yourself

To remove the existing ECU and fit the KPro follow the instructions on the Hondata site – basically drop the glovebox and use a 10mm socket set to remove the ECU and cover, carefully unclip the 3 connectors on the ECU

The map you choose will depend what mods you’re running but I’ll assume it’s a reasonable intake*/exhaust** so I will base this on the k20a2-rsx-coldair map but if not, just choose one of the Euro K20A2 maps and skip the bit about changing the ECU type, or choose a map more suitable for your mods.

When you get to the Honda dealer, you’ll need a laptop running KManager software from the hondata website.

**NB – once you have performed the following steps, the car won’t start, so make sure the car is parked where the Honda dealer wants to work on it first (i.e. their workshop/service area)**

Open KManager on your laptop and select file>open. You’ll get the list of maps that come with the software preloaded. Right click k20a2-rsx-coldair and select “open with” and choose notepad

Change the ECU type from 3 to 2 and click file>save in notepad

Now you can open that map in KManager. From the top menu select Parameters>misc. Here you can enable the immobiliser. Then select Knock/TPS and ensure the knock sensor box is ticked, and also tick the lower box for flashing MIL when knock is detected.

Now save the map by clicking file>save as and choosing a new name for the map (e.g k20a2-rsx-coldair-immob) . You can’t overwrite the existing one.

Plug the USB lead from the ECU into the laptop and put the keys in the ignition, and switch the ignition on (but don’t start the car). If you haven’t ever connected the laptop to the ECU before the laptop will recognise the ECU and will ask for drivers. Choose to install the drivers manually and point the installation directory to the KManager folder (ie c:\program files\kmanager ) and click ok. It will then find the drivers and give you a warning that the drivers aren’t digitally signed but click continue anyway.

When that’s finished, in KManager click Online>Upload. It will take around 60 seconds to upload the map and you will hear a click from the ignition when it resets itself.

Now the Honda dealer can get to work coding the immobiliser. It should only take 20-30 minutes so you should be charged for a maximum of half an hour’s labour at the dealers normal rates plus VAT.

*Reasonable intake = GruppeM, AEM CAI etc
**Reasonable exhaust = decent catback – i.e. Spoon N1, Toda etc

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