- Sun May 14, 2017 10:43 am
#3864326
Hi All,
I'm relatively new to the forum and never really done a build thread in years of modifying cars, hopefully will get to know a few of you and bump into you (not literally) on some track days around the UK.
So I decided that I've been too many years without a track car and decided to get something again. I really wanted a rear wheel drive car again but everything that interested me was out of my price range (including the parts to make it capable/safe for sustained track abuse).
I've had several Honda's previously and found them very reliable when driven hard and heard the EP3 Type R had pretty good handling straight out the box so I started searching ebay, after going to see several cars that were overpriced given their actual condition I finally bought the below 52 plate Silver Type R with 100k on the clock and full service history. The only mods being an headunit and AEM V2 induction kit
So I set about some initial mods for my first trackday. This trackday would be mainly to gauge I was happy with the car before ploughing too much money in to it. So, I went and bought some bits:
17 x 7.5j Works Kai-CR alloys
Nankang AR-1 225/45/17 tyres
The exhaust was also blowing so got a Toyosports (silenced B Pipe) spoon replica Cat Back also.
After going on my first track day I learnt several things:
• The standard pads/fluid are $hit.
• The suspension isn’t too bad out of the box, however needs higher spring rates (espically on the rear) and more roll damping all round and stiffer roll bar
• It really needs some type of LSD, power on understeer is annoying
• The low clutch has now given up the ghost and wont fully release, assuming worn clutch cover springs
• Car felt slightly vague in its response to road, especially during transitional manoeuvres, was quite good on steady state. Bushes worn?
• The seating position is too high (I’m only 5ft9). Feel like I’m on top of the car.
• I’m worried about oil pressure/temps even though water looks OK and should really buy some gauges
• The Nankang AR1’s are awesome! Better than I remember R888’s. Was easily catching some expensive machinery through the turns
• This thing needs a remap/k100, more midrange would be nice, annoying when dropping out of vtec, needs lowering.
• Geo needs doing to liven up turn in and give more oversteer (toe out the fronts and straighten up the rears)
So I set about purchasing my second set of mods to cure these findings:
Brakes
Motul 600 Fluid
HEL Braided Lines
Stoptech Handed Discs
Ferodo DS3000 Pads
Engine/Gearbox
Quaife ATB & Koyo Bearings
Exedy OEM Replacement Clutch
Clockwise Sump Baffle
Engine & Gearbox Mount inserts (Energy & Powerflex)
Tegiwa Suframe locking collars
Honda MTF Gearbox oil
Oil sandwich plate for sensors
Oil pressure and temp gauges with sensors
Oil & Filter
Piper 4-2-1 Manifold and sports cat (2.5”)
Suspension
Area Motorsport Yellowspeed Track Coilovers (16kg rear springs and castor increase)
Progress 24mm Rear ARB
DME Rear Camber arms
Replacement Track Rod Ends
Hardrace Ball Joints - extended
Full Super Pro Bush Set inc. increased caster bush
Interior
Sparco ProADV driver seat
Sabelt 4 point harness
Geo Setup
Front Toe – 1mm toe out per side
Rear Toe – 0mm toe
Front Camber – 3deg
Rear Camber – 2deg
Rear Spring preload – 135mm
Front Spring preload – As set my yellowspeed
Front & Rear Ride height - -30mm all round
That is about the story so far. Decided I’ve had enough of crawling on the ground so I gave the car a quick diet and packed the car off the APTuning in Norwich to save my back. They will be fitting all of this bar the seat. I will also be looking at something more the up the power, thinking K100 and RBC inlet.
I can’t wait to get the car back and get another track day. I’ll post some clips. Let me know what you think. I also have some question if someone can help:
• I have ordered fixed sidemounts and I don’t trust rails with a bucket seat. Does anyone do a bolt on adapter that bolts up to standard angled fixings and gives a flat rail to bolt sidemounts to? Or do I have to weld a bar/plate in to bolt to?
• Are there any other boltons worth doing before I get a K100 and RBC? Is the standard size RBC OK with standard throttle body or should I be getting a 70mm job?
• Is it worth having brake ducts to the front brakes, seen some bits from BYC that look to do the job, not sure if the setup I’ve got will still overheat?
Cheers,
AndyT
I'm relatively new to the forum and never really done a build thread in years of modifying cars, hopefully will get to know a few of you and bump into you (not literally) on some track days around the UK.
So I decided that I've been too many years without a track car and decided to get something again. I really wanted a rear wheel drive car again but everything that interested me was out of my price range (including the parts to make it capable/safe for sustained track abuse).
I've had several Honda's previously and found them very reliable when driven hard and heard the EP3 Type R had pretty good handling straight out the box so I started searching ebay, after going to see several cars that were overpriced given their actual condition I finally bought the below 52 plate Silver Type R with 100k on the clock and full service history. The only mods being an headunit and AEM V2 induction kit
So I set about some initial mods for my first trackday. This trackday would be mainly to gauge I was happy with the car before ploughing too much money in to it. So, I went and bought some bits:
17 x 7.5j Works Kai-CR alloys
Nankang AR-1 225/45/17 tyres
The exhaust was also blowing so got a Toyosports (silenced B Pipe) spoon replica Cat Back also.
After going on my first track day I learnt several things:
• The standard pads/fluid are $hit.
• The suspension isn’t too bad out of the box, however needs higher spring rates (espically on the rear) and more roll damping all round and stiffer roll bar
• It really needs some type of LSD, power on understeer is annoying
• The low clutch has now given up the ghost and wont fully release, assuming worn clutch cover springs
• Car felt slightly vague in its response to road, especially during transitional manoeuvres, was quite good on steady state. Bushes worn?
• The seating position is too high (I’m only 5ft9). Feel like I’m on top of the car.
• I’m worried about oil pressure/temps even though water looks OK and should really buy some gauges
• The Nankang AR1’s are awesome! Better than I remember R888’s. Was easily catching some expensive machinery through the turns
• This thing needs a remap/k100, more midrange would be nice, annoying when dropping out of vtec, needs lowering.
• Geo needs doing to liven up turn in and give more oversteer (toe out the fronts and straighten up the rears)
So I set about purchasing my second set of mods to cure these findings:
Brakes
Motul 600 Fluid
HEL Braided Lines
Stoptech Handed Discs
Ferodo DS3000 Pads
Engine/Gearbox
Quaife ATB & Koyo Bearings
Exedy OEM Replacement Clutch
Clockwise Sump Baffle
Engine & Gearbox Mount inserts (Energy & Powerflex)
Tegiwa Suframe locking collars
Honda MTF Gearbox oil
Oil sandwich plate for sensors
Oil pressure and temp gauges with sensors
Oil & Filter
Piper 4-2-1 Manifold and sports cat (2.5”)
Suspension
Area Motorsport Yellowspeed Track Coilovers (16kg rear springs and castor increase)
Progress 24mm Rear ARB
DME Rear Camber arms
Replacement Track Rod Ends
Hardrace Ball Joints - extended
Full Super Pro Bush Set inc. increased caster bush
Interior
Sparco ProADV driver seat
Sabelt 4 point harness
Geo Setup
Front Toe – 1mm toe out per side
Rear Toe – 0mm toe
Front Camber – 3deg
Rear Camber – 2deg
Rear Spring preload – 135mm
Front Spring preload – As set my yellowspeed
Front & Rear Ride height - -30mm all round
That is about the story so far. Decided I’ve had enough of crawling on the ground so I gave the car a quick diet and packed the car off the APTuning in Norwich to save my back. They will be fitting all of this bar the seat. I will also be looking at something more the up the power, thinking K100 and RBC inlet.
I can’t wait to get the car back and get another track day. I’ll post some clips. Let me know what you think. I also have some question if someone can help:
• I have ordered fixed sidemounts and I don’t trust rails with a bucket seat. Does anyone do a bolt on adapter that bolts up to standard angled fixings and gives a flat rail to bolt sidemounts to? Or do I have to weld a bar/plate in to bolt to?
• Are there any other boltons worth doing before I get a K100 and RBC? Is the standard size RBC OK with standard throttle body or should I be getting a 70mm job?
• Is it worth having brake ducts to the front brakes, seen some bits from BYC that look to do the job, not sure if the setup I’ve got will still overheat?
Cheers,
AndyT