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User avatar
By mat
#2410641
i know this has been done before, but i feel that it would be better if it was one, purpose built thread, with all the pictures working properly!

this takes about an hour (it took me about 25 minutes to do this and take pictures, 3rd time i've done it)

firstly, you will need (from left to right)

Image

8mm flex head ratchet spanner (normal 8mm will do but a flex head ratchet makes it far easier)
screwdriver socket thing (normal socket with long reach will be fine)
cross head screwdriver bit (or normal screwdriver)
8mm socket
head unit removal keys (should come in the box with new head unit)
AUTOLEADS FP-15-03/S facia adapter (not pictured)
AUTOLEADS C2-68-4 for Honda Accord - 9/98+ (not pictured)

you may also need the code for the current head unit.


right then, now we have everything we need, start by gently pulling out the gearstick surround by placing your hand in the gaiter and easing it out, pay special attention not to crack the plastic where the surround is clipped in (shown by the red circles) as the left one can be a bit stubborn!

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once you have the surround out, unclip the hazard switch and the cigarette lighter socket and turn the whole thing round so it is out the way:

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at the back of the hole there is a big fat cable, unclip like so:

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now, open the glove box and squeeze the sides together to flap it down and out the way, then, using the 8mm socket screwdriver you can pass it through the glove box to undo this little bolt (i found that i could just put the 8mm ratchet spanner through the main hole, but if you can't then drop the glovebox and do it this way)

NOTE: do not completely unscrew these bolts, just loosen them off.

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now the bolt on the other side can be done in the same manner, except this time you need to take the fuse box cover off by turning the little dial (where my finger and thumb are below) a quarter turn and gently pulling it downwards:

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now as i said a minute ago, it is possible (but a bit fiddly) to undo both bolts with a flex head ratchet spanner like so:

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undo these two screws, you don't have to do this but i did to get better pics of the hole:

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reach right back here and pull this piece of metal and the whole centre will come free, it may require a little force, but you only want to pull it out a few inches (as it is attached by 5 cables!) if it feels stuck, loosen the 8mm bolts off some more:

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slowly pull it out, looking behind it as you do as you don't really want to break the cables, it will pull out about 7-10 inches which will give you enough room to unclip everything, here is a picture of what it looks like back there, i have circled all of the connector points which you will need to unclip (they have little tabs on the connectors which need to be pushed to 'unlock' them) don't worry about which slots they came out of as they are all different sizes and only fit in the correct sockets...

please note this picture shows the unit the right way up:

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now that you have the centre out, undo the 4 8mm bolts that hold the head unit in place (not shown in pics below but i have circled where they are) these bolts will probably not bolt into your new head unit, so put them to one side:

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NOTE: if you are not using a facia adapter, you only have to remove the four bolts holding the head unit in place, then continue to putting the head unit cage in.

the gold screws hold the little compartment under the oem head unit in place, unscrew these and keep them ready to go back on (you may have to take the heater controls off to reach one of the screws, just unscrew the heater control unit, the black part with the green sockets on it)

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the head unit and compartment will now just slide out:

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slide the new facia into the slot and attach using the four gold screws that held the old lower compartment in place (if you had to remove the heater controls unit, please screw it back in now)

now, slide the cage off the new head unit (may require the use of removal keys)

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the cage pushes into the hole, make sure that you get it the right way up (if applicable) then using the screwdriver, bend all of the little metal tabs to secure the cage in place like so:

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slide the new head unit in, it should click into place:

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if your headunit is usb compatible, feed the usb cable through into the glove box:

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now connect up the leads to the back of the head unit, then connect the wiring harness to them (circled red) and connect to the car (circled green) then connect the aerial lead to the head unit:

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plug the remaining three green leads into their sockets, i'll show you this picture again, just incase:

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if you took this part off, then screw it back on now:

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then push the whole unit back into it's hole, being careful not to crush or squash the cables...
then put the face and surround on the headunit and test that it is all working ok before you put everything back together:

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reach back in the hole and clip the fat black cable back on:

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then tighten up the two little bolts in whichever way you found easiest to undo them:

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squeeze the sides of the glove box and lift it back into place, then put the fuse box cover back on in the same way you took it off...

clip the hazard light switch and cigarette lighter sockets back in:

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then push the gear gaiter surround back into place...

JOB DONE!!

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dowload this guide by clicking HERE

if you think i have missed anything let me know and i'll do some edits...


cheers,



mat.
:thumbup:
Last edited by mat on Sun May 30, 2010 5:45 pm, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By mat
#2410763
scruffy_ wrote:Good write up, like it. :-D

What fascia did you use for the install, the colour match is better than the ones I've seen.
thanks, hope it helps someone!

tbh i don't know, it was the one that my mate got when he bought the car... i have the autoleads one and the colour is almost bang on...
devil84 wrote:Excellent write up!! I nominate for sticky!!
why thankyou, took me a few hours but if it helps someone it was worth it!

cheers,


mat.
User avatar
By mat
#2410788
Newannaive wrote:nice work matt...much better than the original. :thumbup:




p.s. nice bracelet :ymca:
:lol:

cheers buddy, i've been meaning to do it for a while, i remember what a pita it was doing mine with the disjointed guides there are on here, the main one's link doesn't work!

finished work at 2, changed clothes in the bog and had this finished by about 25 past, walked back into work and handed my mate the keys... job done!!

leave my bracelet alone, it's been on my wrist for about 3 years now, i've grown quite fond of it!! :lol: :ymca:


mat.
User avatar
By sa08
#2411003
Excellent How to!!

I'm sure many people will find it very useful. :thumbup:
User avatar
By nath4speed
#2412200
My cars a model :-D

Looks like an awesome guide mat, very detailed!
This should definately by made sticky.
This'll be what im looking for if i need to remove the unit again.
#2445919
absolutely fantastic guide mate, i'm mechanically dyslexic and even i managed it, for anyone thinking its too hard or complicated, its a piece of pi55 using the step by step instructions with this, don't be put off cos its not a big job. and i didn't even have a flexi head spanner, i managed with just a 8mm socket. you only really need the screwdriver for bending the holding tabs on the cage. cheers for this mate. :thumbup: :salut: :WOOT
User avatar
By Superbully
#2447852
don't you have to detach the 2 heater control cables from the centre console before sliding out :scratch:

I do know that my euro centre console is different to yours. I definitely need to detach my cables to be able to get a stereo out and in.
User avatar
By Cracksta
#2447864
good write up, i did mine on sun but i have a question which should also help others.

1. i didnt use the cage at all, instead use the back metal plate and screw 2 screws to the head unit to hold it in place. If i did it your way with the cage, wouldnt the HU be too heavy and droop down on the cubby? At the moment, the face plate surround is not holding properly.

Cheers!

@Superbully - I think you only need to remove the heater part if you wana to remove the metal plate that holds the OEM stereo as there is a screw which is blocked by the heater control unit.
User avatar
By mat
#2448372
Superbully wrote:don't you have to detach the 2 heater control cables from the centre console before sliding out :scratch:

I do know that my euro centre console is different to yours. I definitely need to detach my cables to be able to get a stereo out and in.
not sure quite what you mean buddy? there are five cables plugged into the centre console which you have to unplug?

:scratch: :scratch:
slowly pull it out, looking behind it as you do as you don't really want to break the cables, it will pull out about 7-10 inches which will give you enough room to unclip everything, here is a picture of what it looks like back there, i have circled all of the connector points which you will need to unclip (they have little tabs on the connectors which need to be pushed to 'unlock' them) don't worry about which slots they came out of as they are all different sizes and only fit in the correct sockets...

mat.
User avatar
By mat
#2448385
Cracksta wrote:good write up, i did mine on sun but i have a question which should also help others.

1. i didnt use the cage at all, instead use the back metal plate and screw 2 screws to the head unit to hold it in place. If i did it your way with the cage, wouldnt the HU be too heavy and droop down on the cubby? At the moment, the face plate surround is not holding properly.

Cheers!

@Superbully - I think you only need to remove the heater part if you wana to remove the metal plate that holds the OEM stereo as there is a screw which is blocked by the heater control unit.

i don't think the weight of the cage makes any difference tbh (it's made of thin metal?) not all head units come with holes in them to screw the unit into the oem position, most use there own specific cage as security (to stop the unit just being slid straight out by a scally)

i've fitted three headunits so far (all different makes) and all of them have needed the cage...

tbh i'm not completely following what you are saying, maybe a picture would help?


mat.
:thumbup:
User avatar
By Cracksta
#2449580
to clarify, i didnt use the stereo cage for my install.

I used a aftermarket facia, held the HU so I can screw both sides to the back metal plate. This is whats holding my HU at the moment.

In yours, you've used the OEM stereo cage, how is the HU supported on the facia if the metal cage itself is not screwed into anything? Or have you also screwed it to the back plate (where the 4 OEM HU use to be).

hope thats clearer.
User avatar
By mat
#2450079
the oem stereo doesn't have a cage???

when you buy an aftermarket head unit, they normally come with a cage in the box, like this:

Image

then, as crude as it is you bend the little tabs to secure the cage into the slot, like so:

Image

the reason for this is because all the head units i have ever fitted to any car have had a cage in the box for them and have not had screw holes in the sides of them...

the cage locks into the facia with the metal tabs, then the headunit locks into it's specific cage so you can only take the head unit out with it's specific keys... it is very secure, trust me.

the only way that i would fit a headunit without the cage in a ctr is if it has specific holes in the sides for me to screw the oem (or other) screws into... which none of the three i have fitted so far have had...

i assume that the headunit you have just so happens to have these screw holes for you to screw into???


mat.
ps. also, i can take my headunit out in seconds (only with the keys obviously) should i need to.
User avatar
By mjhamilton
#2450184
You are spot on there.. I tried my Pioneer using the Honda method and it woul dnot come far forward enought to look good.. ended up using the cage also... :thumbup:
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