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Go go juice and lubrication.
User avatar
By oilman
#1043899
I read so much stuff on the internet about Synthetic Oils that is simply not true so I felt it was time to tell the truth rather than accept the myth.

So in future when you see someone state any of these, please do me a favour and point them at this thread!

Synthetic motor oils damage seals:
Complete Nonsense! Any oil seals made after 1975 or thereabouts will be entirely compatible with any type of synthetic engine oil. (The same goes for synthetic gear oils and transmission oil seals.) It must be understood that everything associated with lubrication is thoroughly tested. The major oil manufacturers do not make oils that attack seals; seal manufacturers ensure that their products function correctly with modern lubricants.

Synthetic oils are too thin:
It is true that the best synthetic blends can be low viscosity (0w-20 for example), but they do not have to be! It is also true that the latest engines are designed to run on thin oil, which improves power output and fuel consumption. Even so, thicker synthetic based grades (10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-50etc) are available for air-cooled motors, older engines, or severe high temperature conditions. These grades can also benefit rebuilt classic engines dating back to the 1940s.

Synthetics mean higher oil usage:
The complete opposite of the truth. Oil consumption in well-maintained modern engines is mainly down to the oil evaporating at high temperatures. Synthetic base oils (specially the PAO and ester types) are very resistant to evaporation loss even in low viscosity blends, so oil consumption is minimised. Obviously, engines with worn valve guides, defective seals and worn piston rings will use oil regardless, so there is no point in using expensive synthetics as an ‘old banger lube’.

Synthetic oils are not compatible with other oils:
All engine oils intended for normal road use in recent 4-stroke engines are compatible with one another, regardless of the base make-up. (mineral, PAO/ester/hydrocracked synthetic, and semi-synthetic.) There is no need to flush or strip down an engine when changing from one type to another. (…but be careful with the exception: castor oil based racing oils.)

Synthetic oils produce sludge:
Well honestly, this is just totally daft. All synthetic bases are more resistant to oxidation than mineral oil, and sludge is largely due to oxidation. In any case, all motor oils intended for road use meet the higher API specs such as SH, SJ, SL and diesel equivalents. One of the main reasons for introducing the API specs back in the 1950s was to deal with oil sludge problems. All high-spec oils run very clean, especially synthetics.

Synthetic oils cannot be used with catalytic converters: ‘Cats’ will perform more efficiently and last longer if synthetic based engine oil is used. Their lower volatility (see 3 above) means that less oil reaches the combustion chambers via crankcase ventilation, so there are less harmful ash residues from burnt oil to de-activate the catalyst matrix.

Synthetic oils can void warranties:
People who make statements such as this never define the type of synthetic, thus revealing their ignorance. Provided that an oil meets or exceeds the API and viscosity ranges specified in the handbook, the warranty will not be affected. (By law, OEMs cannot insist that a particular brand of oil must be used to maintain warranty.)

Synthetic oils will last forever:
The better synthetic blends will certainly last longer*, especially in high performance or high annual mileage situations, but ‘forever’ is not on, simply because contaminants such as soot, and acid gasses from traces of sulphur in the fuel degrade the oil.
(*Provided that a very shear resistant VI improver polymer is used in the oil formulation to keep the viscosity up to spec. This point is often forgotten.

Synthetic oils are too expensive:
True, for older vehicles that use a lot of oil or are almost ready for the scrap yard. For cars that are worth maintaining, the right types of synthetic oil are a cost-effective way of retaining ‘as new’ performance, low fuel consumption, and reducing maintenance costs. (See 6 above, for example. ‘Cats’ aren’t cheap!)

Cheers
Simon
User avatar
By jerry3167
#1044235
:D Hi Oilman,


VERY WELL WRITTEN AND SAID!! :P

Jerry :D
User avatar
By martin
#1044404
Mmmmm, smell that Castrol R. Oops sorry memory lane. :wink:
User avatar
By EvoStu
#1044570
Not many posts are worthy of a permanent sticky! THIS IS! 8)

EvoStu.
User avatar
By jap_master
#1178438
i only have 2 questions:

1. can you mix any brand oils? but keep to the same grade.
2. can you mix full synthetic with semi synthetic?

thanks for your help
User avatar
By oilman
#1178530
All oils will mix, but to keep the quality up its a good idea to use the same grade/brand if you can, so if you have something like the Silkolene Pro S in the car, you can top up with Magnatec but it will just dliute the good quality Silkolene.

Cheers

Guy.
User avatar
By spideru
#1411865
Right now I'm using 5w50 Rally Formula from mobil1. Is this ok?
User avatar
By sugarpuff
#1608560
Question to oilman.... seen as you know your stuff about oil what would you recommend to use in a EP3?? maybe could you say a few catering for everyones budget?
User avatar
By sugarpuff
#1608721
Thanks Guy
User avatar
By abdul1981
#1793986
hi,

i need to top up oil on my FN2. Been told Millers Oil is a good choice? Good or bad choice??

abdul
User avatar
By wheelconnector
#1945339
So, how about when running an engine in. I have read many times that you should stay away from synthetic during the run-in period. Any truth behind this?
User avatar
By oilman
#1945352
A mineral oil doesn't provide as good lubrication so the friction in the engine causes the cylinder and piston to wear together better. A synthetic can stop that happening so well, so the engine doesn't run in as well.
User avatar
By Superbully
#2000302
oilman wrote:We recommend a 5w-40 or 0w-40 synthetic for all year round use. The best are the ester based synthetics of Silkolene and Motul.

Cheers

Guy
how can i see if an oil is ester based? will it say so on the back somewhere, or if not what kind of info should i be looking for on the label to confirm ester basedness?
User avatar
By greesha
#3771048
Just bought Fuchs titan pro S 5w-40 for my EP3.

My renault clio 197 cup friend is telling me off now saying that i should have bought Millers CFS competition as this oil was prvoen on many subaru forums as the best one (tested in laboratories, blah, blah).

As you're the Oilman could you tell me if there are any real differences between them or are they both as good?.

Thanks

Greg
User avatar
By oilman
#3771065
Hi Greg

There is a test, done by Tegiwa, that shows their Civic race car developed more power with the Millers Nanodrive than with the Pro S. In protection terms, I would say they are pretty similar based on both of them being very well proven oils in all different types of cars and uses.

Unfortunately, Subaru forums are often dominated by some people that say things with no basis and can't back up their points when you ask them. We sell enough of both to know that they are as good as oil gets.

Cheers

Tim

Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]