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Established in 2002 it brings together people from all over the world to discuss their one love of Type R's.

Those Complete Power Boosting & Drivetrain Mods..
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User avatar
By m_kidd
#3805455
Hi guys,

I've been gathering parts for an engine built (N/A) for some time now and the list continues to grow. So far its been the top end I have bought for (cams etc as per my last thread) now I'm looking at the bottom end. A member is selling a piston kit which I'm interested in and thought I may as well go a bit further again. Are dry sumps and knife edge cranks a good way to go?

No cost per gain is not worth it for N/A comments please, been done to death.

Cheers
User avatar
By m_kidd
#3805639
its not for anything specific mate its a toy and plan is to go to the Nurburgring next summer. It's used n the road sometimes but is limited as I have a second car. The top end is being rebuilt with skunk 2 stage 2 cams etc. I'm aware you may say its over kill but I'm happy to do it lol (I would have to have all the components in front of me to give full details.) Its really a question of is this the way I would go next....
User avatar
By AdamB92
#3805672
Being a motorsport engineer myself and having studied under one of the worlds greatest engine designers, you could pick up a fair amount of power by fiddling with the bottom end.

Knife edging is ok in terms of balancing the engine providing the person who's doing it knows what their doing in 90% of the cases they don't and it actually only ends up weakening the crank unless it goes through heat treatment processes.
Dry sumps are good, but as has already been said, it depends what your going to use the motor for and whether its worth shelling out for.
User avatar
By pulpmelon_r
#3805680
So the use case is fast road and the cylinder head is stock bar a stage 2 cam profile + supporting valvetrain.

I would not consider building the bottom end for that configuration. Keep it OEM and reliable with extra static compression from a spoon / Toda head gasket to support the cams. If you still have time / money I would also consider other cams but that's a whole new thread by itself...

Lastly regarding a dry sump kit for a road car on non-slick tyres, that's not a typical thing to do, due to the average kit costing around £2000 and a baffled wet sump doing the job just fine for the Gforce a street tyre can generate.
User avatar
By m_kidd
#3805810
I want to have the head sent away for porting / polishing or gas flowing which ever is the correct terminology. Sump I wasn't sure about, if a baffle does the job just as well then that's what I'll go with. Car has semi-slick tyres pump, like you say but probably doesn't warrant a the dry sump. Cam's etc are staying as they are, got them at a good price and I have my inlet / full exhaust etc etc
User avatar
By pulpmelon_r
#3805842
Just be aware that if you go ahead with the skunk2 cams it might be false economy long term as they will require an upgraded timing chain, timing chain tensioner and adjustable exhaust cam vernier pulley.

Stay away from anything other than a proven CnC port programme on a K20 head, anything else will most likely make it worse than OEM through the rev range. Larger valves are overkill on a 2.0L unless you can rev out to 10k plus.

The people that have the most fun per pound in their civics are generally those that have stayed with bolt ons and a kpro, stripped the car out and fitted a shorter final drive. You can leave some expensive kit behind on a track day or RWYB with a simple setup like that.
User avatar
By doug2507
#3806270
Stock crank is strong as sh-t, no need to swap it out unless chasing a different stroke.

I've got 2.0 arriving soon that's been built to pretty much as high a spec as you can go for a 2.0 without short stroking (with dry sump) and even that's still using the stock crank!

Dry sump costs a few quid and on a road car is a complete waste of money imo. I went with it on my build to eek every last drop of power out of the motor and obviously help longevity as it'll only be driven in anger. (hillclimbs)
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