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#3866202
Hi guys,

I have tried to search for anyone with this problem but cant find anything so hopefully this isnt a double post.

I have a CTR EP3 Facelift which has lowered springs, a K+N typhoon induction kit and Powerflow exhaust (post cat to exhaust tip i believe). I have a P0131 which is front lambda sensor voltage too low. I have had the lambda changed for a NGK one and the EML still comes on. The garage that done it is stumped as they have tried other sensors and all the connections to make sure it is working and it is. I'm wanting to know if anyone can tell me of other possibilities to cause this error. According to said garage I can try a genuine part or go to Honda to get them to look into it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ryan
#3866218
Hey mate .. Most of them connectors are buggers to get apart I am sure a second look at the fitting joint will show the wires have been dislodged and just need popping back into there place . After all the circuit has been changed for new so you really shouldn't have any issues . Goodluck
#3866219
the garage said they checked the connections etc. so would it still be fuse/connections on sensor that could be be messing up? and ill get a batt test to see if its that.

thanks for the replies guys
:)

Added in 43 minutes 2 seconds:
So i have checked the fuse and it is fine i checked number 19 under steering wheel which according to http://fusesdiagram.com/honda/fuses-and ... -2006.html is the right one. just need to check batt voltage and the connecter but its a pain as its lowered and im on a hill so isnt really suitable.

Cheers

Added in 2 hours 41 minutes 36 seconds:
I just went for a drive with the live data of both 02 sensors on the graph, is it normal for the rear 02 to be either max or min and no middle ground? could this be causing the front 02 to be put out of comfort zone and spin out? just a thought.
cheers

Added in 1 minute 8 seconds:
P.S *front 02 sensor oscillating and reacting quickly to throttle position*
#3866234
The front goes up and down like it should (according to various internet sources), the rear is either a line at the top or bottom and jumps straight from top to bottom but not very often, maybe like every 5 secs on avg. Could the rear one be faulty and throw a code for the front one? I think i may try another working rear sensor and swap it over (scrap jobby if i can find one that works). I'll keep ya updated

Cheers
#3866237
Rear sensor will have no relation to the front readings. The rear sensor values will change depending on running conditions. The ECU compares the signal from the front pre catalyst lambda and the rear one. It’s when these signals match each other you get the catalyst inefficient fault.
Regarding your initial fault. You need to check the wiring for the lambda if you’ve changed it for a good lambda.
When you clear the fault does it come back straight away or do you have to drive it first?
#3866239
ok fair enough, well the garage supposedly checked all the pins to make sure the wiring was ok and they also checked the sensor itself and said that was ok too.
When i clear the fault if the car is cold, it takes until the car is up to temp to come back on. If i clear it when its warm it takes maybe 30-60 secs of driving to come back.

Cheers

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