The largest Civic Type R club forum

Established in 2002 it brings together people from all over the world to discuss their one love of Type R's.

Here you can brag away boys (and girls)
User avatar
By jonezy
#3828724
Look into getting the spray for that wrap. Had mine on like 12 months and it's starting to break up

Spray might preserve is a little
User avatar
By decoep3
#3828830
i did abit of looking into before doing it . the titainium heat wrap is different the fiber glass , doesnt need wetting or spraying isnt needed . spray would prob help alright .
time to get a filter organised
Aonghus said to use a HKS mushroom filter ,
iv heard alot bad things about them . and i dunno if ill fit one being so wide .
looking at maybe something like http://www.knfilters.com/search/product ... od=RU-2520
or run a angle off turbo and run a different one
User avatar
By jonezy
#3828838
The filtration of the hks is shuffle. I had one for a bit and could wipe dust off the comp housing behind the filter after a few hundred miles
User avatar
By decoep3
#3828899
Thats what i was thinking alright jonezy
Im going to order a 90 degree pipe and run a big filter behind headlamp . Will have alot more space there

I fit the iat sensor to pipe today and cleaned out all pipes and fitted with all clamps .

Image

Image

Image
:cool:
iv all wiring done inside car for hi/low boost
aem datalog wire
boost solenoid etc
im putting a switch board in glove box with switches for hi/low
rad fan (will be still working off oem circuit )
User avatar
By conalmcn
#3828908
Looks great now comin on great. Any pics of the battery relocation?

Btw is your boost pipes two different sizes?
User avatar
By jonezy
#3828921
You doing a fan override switch? To force it on? Would be interested.

Those t clamps are ok until you take em off then they seem to just fall apart.

I just use JCS hi grip jubilees, best bit they don't rust or come loose. And they go tighter due to being narrower

Nothing to worry about yet, but if you do end up tidying it at any point you may have to change he clamps. My "stainless" milakor ones were knackered!
User avatar
By decoep3
#3828924
Sorry conal i forgot to get that for you
Ill be down tomorrow eve and ill take pics of battery .
Yeah i have 2 in hot pipes and 2.5 in cold pipes
Yeah im going to do a fan over ride switch . Will be handy done and handy for track days etc
Yeah id say clamps will be sh-t after a removal alright
User avatar
By conalmcn
#3828927
Aw np im thinkin of doin same so be good to have an idea.
I'm using 2.75 for both any reason your using different sizes? 2" not be resrestrictive?
User avatar
By decoep3
#3828934
Sorry was ment to say 2.5 "cold pipe and 3 " hot pipe haha
that's the way it came
Yeah relocating battery is defo a good idea gives alot space
User avatar
By decoep3
#3829006
dunno if ill do switch up for fan as of yet . see how it is first
but handy done , the ecu controls the relay to bring fan in . i would tap into the signal wire and run it to the switch , then the other side of the switch would go to either the earth or live required to activate relay(normally earth controlled)

going to set up the waste gate and solenoid dis week .
its a 3 port mac solenoid and turbo smart hyper 45mm gate has 5psi spring in it now .
theres a few different ways in the manual to connect gate up .
what way you have yours done jonezy ?
ill need to go to the top pipe for the controller to keep gate closed for more boost over 5 psi yeah ?
and do i just leave bottom open or run that to boost/vacuum pipe direct hhhmmmm
User avatar
By jonezy
#3829023
Image


Image

Image

This is the normal one to use with all solenoids so they work normally.

Some hookups work with some but cause boost creep and other issues on other as I found out!

This way will work every time and is safest if the solenoid fails will just run spring pressure

Also the springs for the gate are just a guide, it will likely run 2-4psi on that spring.

Hope those pics help. Any bother Or explanation required then just ask
User avatar
By decoep3
#3829036
Thanks jonezy yeah thats perfect was looking at them image on google ha
Just wasnt sure to leave one open or run it like that . Ill let it up like that and see how it goes :bigthumb:
User avatar
By jonezy
#3829063
Cool. Try and use a reinforced sort of line and keep em as short as possible.

And use airline sealant on any fittings you can
User avatar
By JDP
#3829094
Why not just use kpro to force fan on a a lower temp??? No need for extra switches and wires to complicate things???
User avatar
By decoep3
#3829118
Yeah ill chat to aonghus when im up with him . Prpb wont need to do anything a tall with it .

Conalmcn heres few pictures of battery relocation setup
im going to redo the earths in boot and that .
Iv extra earth straps on engine and gearbox i made up aswell .
The cage its in at moment is only temporary. But has done the job . Will make new one

after ya do it do voltage drop tests with multimeter ensure its as little as possible
live should be less then 0.5v and earth 0.2v


Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
User avatar
By jonezy
#3829120
JDP wrote:Why not just use kpro to force fan on a a lower temp??? No need for extra switches and wires to complicate things???
That's a thing........ Cheers for that lol

Also is it still an issue for batteries in the boot gassing?
User avatar
By jonezy
#3829210
If you remove the inlet manifold you can add vac ports to the bottom of the manifold with a tap and die set
  • 1
  • 9
  • 10
  • 11
  • 12
  • 13
  • 15

Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]