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User avatar
By doug2507
#3827372
Subframe after coating:

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Fitted:

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FYI, spoon subframe collar kit, they're not crush washers. Save a few quid and get the Tegiwa kit. :bigthumb:

Sump tank checked for fitment:

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Height's fine but there's not a chance in hell i'm getting intake pipework past it into the wing. Solution already sorted, easier to show when the time comes rather than explain. :wink:
User avatar
By doug2507
#3827823
Well, builds are never straight forward but i'm starting to think someones trying to put a spanner in the works every step recently, no pun intended. Pretty much every part thats been ordered has been delayed and same goes for any 3rd party work. Soldier on though!

After whats felt like an eternity i finally got the suspension arms and knuckles back after being in the local stealers for 3 days. Counter shaft also rebuilt with the 5.8 shaft.

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Decided to do the front first as i'm waiting on rear LCA's and an ASR brace to ship from the states which finally went today.

All bushes have been replaced with hard race bushes bar the rear upper hub bush, credit for that with SPD.

Front arms: (caster offset)

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Arms fitted without much hassle, just had to ratchet the bolts in/out a few times to clear the threads of paint. Same went for the threads for the ABS sensors, took my time with them due to snapping a bolt in one of the original knuckles. Noticed these bolts from lungs don't come in the usual parts bags to not 100% convinced they're made of the same quality steel.

Fitted the first knuckle (now with new bearings), bolted up the shock then jacked the lower arm to compress the spring for fitting the tie rod end then noticed this….

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Went onto google straight away and checked if anyone else had this issue. Turns out they used to come with a groove machined into them and a cir clip. New ones don't. Phoned SPD, solution apparently is to put a couple of spot welds on them to stop it. Seems like a bit of a bizarre solution but made sense. Can't figure out why the changed the original design though….

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Both sides sorted time for the Trophy's! One thing i wasn't aware of is the mounting brackets need to be shimmed so the disc sits equidistant between the pads. Tolerance for this is .001thou. Kit comes with .001-.005 shims, tells you to fit two per bolt so used a .003 + .004 on each. Calliper on and it was .50+thou out easy. Pretty much attributable to the paint. Only had half a day at it today so tomorrow i'll sand down the mounting points on the knuckles tomorrow and get them fully fitted and shimmed correctly….

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I'll get the rears done over tomorrow and Friday. I'll just use the Skunk2 LCA's I've got till the replacements turn up or someone buys them. Doesn't need an arb for now.

Box will be rebuilt Friday once the rear's done and car dropped on it's wheels (finally!). Engine's getting taken out the road to the car on Saturday, Sunday i'll bolt box to engine minus clutch/flywheel and finally drop it in to check for sump pulley clearance.

I've also got a swirl pot mount frame to fabricate then a cover for the wheel well. MSA rules won't allow the pot as it is, needs to be enclosed. Should be easy enough with some alu channel / box, rivets, tiger seal and carbon sheet!

Oh, and the solution for the intake side of life, two words….Titan / Reverie. :wink:
User avatar
By Lewisgame
#3827909
Bummer with the lower ball joint. Before I fitted mine I was worried about this happening. But it seems to be a bit of a hit and miss thing. Although I heated up the knuckle and froze the ball joints so they pretty much fell into place. Maybe if you press them in at the same temperature it stretches/distorts the knuckle mount?
User avatar
By Eric_Sn@il
#3827910
My ball joints did that. Only noticed on closer inspection that the hub was cracked! Worth checking!
User avatar
By doug2507
#3827920
Think the main cause is the surface the RCA's are pressed into is spotless having a) been blasted and b) cleaned up with a soft abrasive wheel on the dremmel where as normally there'll be a little oxidisation to help hold them in. They're still both 'tight' within the hub as i had to socket and hammer back in. From my chat with SPD it seems like a common enough thing to happen…"yeah, that happens, just spot weld them".

Must admit i never inspected them before going to the coaters for cracking. Powder coating seems to be quite hard so if one is cracked it'll soon show up.

Todays efforts…

Front end done…nearly. With the engine out there's not enough weight on the front to compress the shocks enough to get the tie rod ends on (even after a bounce on the subframe!). With the adjustable rods i can sort that out easily once motors in.

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Back end was going alright till i found out the SPD upper hub bushes have a 10mm dia bolt hole. Stock is 12mm. Putting a 10mm bolt through wouldn't have worked due to the camber arms being 12mm so the bolt guides/pins on the bushes are away up to the machine shop to get sorted. Pick them up in the morning. Thought i'd mention it before anyone decides to buy a set!
User avatar
By doug2507
#3828334
Baaarrpp!!

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Quality is absolutely spot on. Credit to Titan for the machining on the manifold, really is superb. Trumpets are stunning in CF, finish is top notch. Can't believe more haven't bought this kit! Forget the turbo stuff and get some good N/A builds on the go with a set of these!

These are a 51mm tapered kit, not as large as some Kinsler's but similar idea to Jenveys with a far better finish and no need to modify the water pump housing. A true bolt on kit! Sizing wise i hope they work in tandem with the cams i'm running. Titan are very good support wise and have different length trumpets available so should be able to tune on the dyno to suit, all within the constraints of front end space.

Being a tapered kit they'll have higher velocity into the head than a straight TB. As the head i'm running is all about velocity and not maximum CFM they should compliment each other nicely, fingers crossed. Port wise my head's slightly bigger than a Hondata gasket, i'll port match the gasket to the manifold but not to the head. Better having intake ports slightly smaller than bigger. To match properly i'd need to take the head off, drill dowel pins to the lot and port match by hand which i'm just not willing to to. I'd imagine it would end up with a reduction in velocity by reducing the length of the taper.

Even though the car will never be on road i'll still run an ITG dome filter, last thing i want is some crap landing in the chambers. I'll be using an air box from Reverie with a duct bonded onto the grill (hopefully) which should give these plenty of cold air to digest (100mm oval crushed). Highest pressure area on the car is just below the grill so might end up with a small ram effect.

The only spanner in the works will be the radiator. Even though i've got a half size rad it'll be height thats the issue. Had a rough measure and nosey on the front the other day and i'll be running an Elise rad from Pro Alloy. Retains full width of the original but only a shade over 300mm high, and it's a 45mm core. Only mod's needed to make it fit the EP3 are slightly wider end tanks to allow hose fitting to be mounted on the face instead of the side, otherwise you'd never get the hoses on. They'll also weld on mounting brackets and i'll get them to put a bar across the back of the fans so i've got somewhere to mount the Laminova.

Plans at the moment are to run these back to back with my RRC setup when i finally make it down to TDI for mapping. It'll be a true back to back, after run in mapped on RRC then swapped over for the ITB's and map adjusted, all done on AEM Infinity. Interested myself to see how the map changes after swapping.

Titan have put a lot of time and money into the R&D and production of these, they are without doubt, straight off the top shelf as far as kits go. If you're in two minds take the plunge, worth every penny. I'll post dyno comparisons when the time comes, just remember the RRC was cut and CNC'd so if there is a gap in results this will be amplified v's stock rrc/rbc, dependant on setup.

:cooldude:
User avatar
By fallenkshatriya
#3828347
They look shexual..... really looking forward to seeing your back-to-back results, Doug. :cool:
Also, what benefits are there with choosing air velocity over volume with regards to your head?
User avatar
By doug2507
#3828348
Increased velocity versus max cfm should provide good gains across the rpm range, not just peak. The heads still flows plenty for the cams max lift. Car needs good accelaration out of the corners so mid range needs to be strong!

Interesting read about port velocity here:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... +Interview+
User avatar
By cammy92
#3828390
Looking forward to the back to back tests although i think it will be close with all the work thats gone into your rrc, but then again who can say no too carbon trumpets :cool:
User avatar
By doug2507
#3828397
Yeah, should be an interesting comparison, suffice to say though that Titan are confident they will outperform the plenum. They put a set on a Sandy Brown pug engine and made good gains. That in itself is quite impressive as there's a fair amount of work that goes into getting the right itb setup (all custom made per engine) on a SB unit . Good read on the Colin Satchel pug here:

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.ph ... pic=140057

One advantage of the ITB's is being able to 'adjust' a few factors before the air gets to the t.b, i.e, trumpet length, venturi to filter spacing, back face of air box distance & angle, air box intake area then the same as with the plenum, intake length and size. Also, the air box intake mouth will end up sitting in a high pressure area where as the v.stack is tucked in behind the bumper to get the length on it.

Just reading up on it all now so should have a few options available to play with for dyno time. Box and ducting turned up today so ready to play about with it once the engines dropped in.
User avatar
By adam_hillclimb
#3828400
Was at Gurston with Colin yesterday. That thing is ballistic! Looks great in its new colours as well - glad I'm not in mod prod! Think weight is down to ~700kg now or something I heard and best part of 280bhp
User avatar
By adam_hillclimb
#3828402
Yeah Keith Murray's Audi has the class record currently but I reckon that won't keep for too long. And yeah you'd really want an ek9 to go in mod-prod. Ep3's a little too high and narrow. Still reckon with the figures you'll be looking to get you'll dominate most production classes - assuming you can drive! [emoji2]
User avatar
By doug2507
#3828595
Finally back on 4 wheels, although i think the camber on the rears might be a tad too much… :-D

Totally digging the wheels now though, can't believe i was in two minds about them before!

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Afternoon spent doing a complete pain in the arse job, making a frame around the wheel well to enclose the swirl pot/pump/filter. Thought it would be easy enough but the getting the height and the angle of the forward channel strip took a while. All fixed in now and level, riveted all round and sealed with fire retardant sealant on both side. I'll leave it to cure overnight then use the cardboard the carbon sheet came in to make a template for the CF. Again, rivets and sealant with an A3 sized access hatched bolted to the main sheet.

Looks a bit sh-t right now but a quick spray with some silver and it'll all blend in…

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User avatar
By doug2507
#3828708
Spent most of today cutting carbon for the rear. Never an easy job, especially making sure you don't put marks on it where they're not wanted! Took my time with it and think it's turned out decent enough.

First job was to make a template, finding a decent sized bit of uncreased cardboard aint easy but luckily the packaging for the sheet was ideal. Decided to oversize it by 10mm on either side to create a lip so i can run a bead of seal underneath just for peace of mind.

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Next up was masking off the carbon, laying the template on and marking it off.

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Decided to leave the template on the sheet, easier on the eye as a guide for cutting and protected the gloss finish throughout the process. I cut approx 10mm from the marking with a heavy duty disc on the dremmel then finished off the edges with the std dremmel cutting discs. If anyone's used these before you'll know how much of a PITA they are for disintegrating. Think i went through about 30+ of these over the course of the day. Surprisingly the bag of discs from ebay held up better than the official dremmel discs!

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Main sheet fitting like a glove. Happy days!

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Next was marking up the access hatch to be covered by an A3 sheet. Chose the most suitable position for it and masked it up with outline marked.

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These are the nuts that'll be bonded onto the underside of the main sheet. Got a dozen in total so four either side.

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Lip for A3 sheet marked up, just a couple of mill wider than the nut plates.

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Cutting all finished.

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I'm away Monday with work for a couple of weeks so it'll get finished next time home. Once i've fabricated a frame for the pot/filter to sit on and re-made the hoses i'll bond the main sheet onto the frame instead of arising about with rivets then get the hatch finished.

Be out to the car on Saturday but that's for dropping the engine in to make sure the sump pulley clears the chassis leg, all providing Lings get my main shaft washers to me tomorrow so the box can go back together!
User avatar
By doug2507
#3828808
Few last bits turning up, oil for the box tomorrow, Giken recommend 80w250 but 75w140 should be fine. It's also what PPG recommend for the dog box.

Inline filter, feck me it's bigger than i expected! It's got an inline port which is where the oil temp sensor will reside as it'll be plumbed in on the scavenge return.

Peterson breather/catch can. This'll come straight off one of the top ports on the oil tank.

Moroso remote filter mount and filter, plumbed inline between pump and block. Nice bit of kit, can be adjusted to any angle.

SPA gauge will be used to monitor oil temp/press so i've got a visual display of it all the time and everything else, i.e, fuel pressure, vacuum pressure, IAT, coolant etc will be direct to the Infinity apart from a secondary coolant sensor for the EWP.

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Finally managed to get all 4 wide band bungs, rest of the AEM stuff will come later (Infinity/sensors/4 channel) but at least i can get the bungs welded on to the manifold now and sent off for coating asap. :WOOT
User avatar
By doug2507
#3828918
Well, engine is finally in, kind off….

Total pain in the arse day, took the casing off the box to fit the mainshaft shims, casing wouldn't go back on. Long story short and 2 hrs later turned out the selector forks weren't going into the casing and sorted it by a gentle tilt of the box. M-tec springs now fitted into the selector as well.

Completely forgot to take the flywheel out the road but put the box on anyway. Whole point of the exercise was to check for sump pump pulley clearance. What an absolute chore dropping the engine in the top with a dry sump. Purely due to the crank bolt being a lot longer. Had to drop the motor in at a fair angle to slide the box in further than it usually sits so i could get the drivers side down.

Ended up getting it in, Dailey sump pulley clears the chassis leg no bother unlike the pace setup so pretty happy and good for others to know. Only bit that needs a fettle is around the crank pulley, it just clears the ridged part of the chassis on the bottom of the arch but even with 75a mounts I'm not taking the risk of the motor moving and hitting. I'll pull it next time home and take a grinder to the lip.

Avid mounts, make sure you can take the gearbox mount pins off the box! It's either that or need to drop the subframe.

Oh, and don't put oil into the box until it's on the car and driveshafts are in. Half a litre of the good stuff wasted before i noticed it spilling out the diff seals. Lesson learned!

No pics, didn't have time and tomorrows a "family day"…. :roll:
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Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]