The largest Civic Type R club forum

Established in 2002 it brings together people from all over the world to discuss their one love of Type R's.

Here you can brag away boys (and girls)
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3826374
WizardinBlack wrote:Was going to get the stoptech bbk but just settled on new discs and pads for now. Got andy to sort out a frsu for me in Jan and have some dc2 recaros, just waiting on a set of rails. Going to save for a diff and a shortened final drive next. Fitted a prefacelift bumper as well to get rid of the smiley face.
Sounds like you have some nice mods going already, you should make a build thread!

Yea the BBk is overkill unless you are doing track work, with a good set of pads the oem brakes will work very nicely on the road. I had carbone lorraine rc5+ pads on stock discs and they were fantastic... till 2 track days killed the discs :lol: . Ceramic pads tend to kill discs, pagid rs42 blues are very good for track work and much softer on the discs. For fast road get some cosworth streetmaster or ferodo ds2500's.

I've sat in a few dc2's and the seats are really good, really supportive and you cant beat that classic recaro look, your car will feel much better to drive with those seats as you are lower and held in place properly. You will also have a right good laugh with the diff, it definitely takes a bit of getting used to as make no mistake the car will hunt about from side to side on uneven b road cambers. A few of my mates have driven my car and that was their first comment was how much it moves about under acceleration. It's not a violent action but you just have to relax and get used to the wheel squirming about under your hands when pressing on. Once you are used to it you will love having about twice the front axle grip. As for the final drive, 5.1 for the road is perfect, 8% torque increase all round and no whining. I'd go for the 5.417 if you want alot of extra acceleration and can live with the straight cut whine [smilie=karls_thumb.gif]
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3826708
I'm not much of a detailer but i gave it a go:
Car washed... theeeen
Paint de-tarred , Polished , wheels t-cutted then polished, exhaust tips polished with heavy stainless polish, plastics and tyres made darker with some trim darkening stuff. Then it will rain next week :lol:


Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3829389
They say that rust is lighter than steel, however after my MOT a month ago i got rust advisories for the front subframe, jacking points and lower control arms. Fair enough as this car has been run year round in Scotland for the past 12 and a half years. Rather than get mine restored as they were really bad I ordered a very clean subframe and a pair of LCA's from integrastella on ebay and had them powder coated in black. I also though it was a good time to polybush the front LCA's so i ordered an energy suspension polybush kit. In old cars like this and especially when the subframe has been off a few times, the connection points between the chassis and the subframe are not as tight as they were when the car is new. This means that the subframe can move about relative to the chassis and cause the geometry to degrade as you drive it. To solve this problem i bought a rigid subframe collar kit, which uses a series of metal collars for each attachment point to prevent any independent movement of the subframe once it is bolted to the chassis. The chassis legs and jacking points were ground down and luckily only surface rust was found so they were treated to kill the rust then re -undersealed. Some pics of the work:

Jacking points and chassis legs:
Image

Bushes:
Image


Clean Subframe ,LCA, anti-roll bar with both droplibnks replaced:
Image
Image
Image

So this was mainly a rust control project as i plan to keep the car till i'm brushing it out the driveway, however the bushes and collar kit have had a dramatic effect on the front of the car. For the last 3 years the car has always pulled slightly to the left under hard braking - even after i changed the brakes. I always put it down to the bad road cambers and maybe a slightly worn brake proportioning valve, however it turns out the LCA bushes must have been slightly worn, allowing the car to flex under heavy braking. It now stops totally straight and it is also much stiffer and confidence inspiring. Definitely recommend these mods to anyone wanting to make their car handle better with much improved stability under heavy braking and at high speed [smilie=karls_thumb.gif]
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3834876
Had a brilliant day out today at crail, weather was stunning and there was loads of nice machinery.

Went up with a mate who has an Astra VXR and had 3 solid runs against him. First run i got a great start and beat him by a car length, but his ET was faster at 14.68 vs my 14.72 :). The second run he got a better start and we ended up side by side all the way up to 120 mph with him edging me out by about a foot, very close race! Times were 14.47 and 14.65 r for the second run. He always got away quicker as my final drive derps my starts ( wheel spin in 1st and second gear), then i would gradually reel him in inch by inch :D . Unfortunately the only video of racing the astra was the 3rd run where i got a bad start at ran a 14.8 to his 14.5, you can see from the video that from 3rd i start reeling him in:




Bonus video, astra killing an R32:



I then raced a few civics who were up there, all nice folks and up for a random race! I raced a stripped Ep3 with no LSD and pulled a car length, then a stock FN2 twice, first run pulled about 6 car lengths and the second i didn't get a good start so only beat him by about 4-5 car lengths. Then i raced a nice NHB Ep3 running 246 bhp @ TDi north. Car was stripped with launch control but was carrying a passenger, i have full interior and only 226 bhp. Again i got destroyed off the line but once i got grip the car hung on well to the more powerful civic. It's a good indication of the difference between the full bolt ons set up and what i've got.




Great day out, drove up, did 8 races with the car running flawlessly each time, and gave the turbo boys a run for their money :D
#3837735
Hey folks, as my civic is pretty old now i have been spending some cash on restoring the chassis as well as just modifying it to go quicker. After replacing the subframe at the front i fancied doing the rest of the car. Long story short im too busy, the cars too low to work on and to be honest i don't think i'd do a great job.

So i booked the car into a company called preserve and protect based in Johnston,Scotland (http://www.preserveprotect.co.uk). What they do is basically completely examine your chassis for rust using an endoscope and based on what they find they treat and protect it. My car has just had a full chassis cavity inspection, cavity wax, dinitrol rust treatment then a thick layer of dinitrol underseal applied. This stuff is used to protect military vehicles and has a 6 year guarentee so its pretty substantial!

Some pics i took before the work:
Image

Image

Image

These three little vids show the process and the results are pretty astonishing to be honest, it looks like a new car :-D .

Before:



Chassis Inspection:



Final Results:



Total cost is £440 so its more than your regular undersealing, but when you see the state my car was in before hand having been "undersealed" before i think its worth it to get a really good job done. He did say that from now on the rear bumper removal is an extra £50 as its a PITA :LOL:
Last edited by D4Z3D on Wed Aug 12, 2015 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#3837773
That looks like a worthwhile process, wish they had a place closer as I would like to get mine done to preserve it as well.

Rear bumper is pretty simple to remove though, try a front bumper with fogs lol
#3837803
N77 wrote:That looks like a worthwhile process, wish they had a place closer as I would like to get mine done to preserve it as well.

Rear bumper is pretty simple to remove though, try a front bumper with fogs lol
Yea i quite like my car even after all these years, so i think ill keep it, hopefully this process will keep it alive for another decade or so. There is a place down south that do the same process, i phoned them but they are fully booked till November plus for me they are over 300 miles away. Both places use the same process and gear ;-)

http://www.rust.co.uk/we-can-rust-proof ... 250/c32734
#3838103
So with the car freshly rust proofed and shod with new back brakes, the best way to bed them in had to be drag racing :lol:. I usually go drag racing once a year but my mate couldn't make it last month because of illness so when the weather looked good for today we had to go. He has a stock DC5 but this year he has a working clutch and so fancied his chances.

Today our driving was actually pretty bad, first race he missed a gear, second race i stalled... i don't know if i should post this as its utter fail but hey ho:

Fail:




Nothing like stalling in front of a few hundred people ... while takeing someone drag racing for the first time. So having established how sh-t i am at driving, here are the rest of the races:

Civic EP3 Vs Teg DC5 the rematch... take 4:




I just edged him by half a car length, he gets away quicker, i catch him through the gears and then in 5th they sit next to eachother auntill 120 mph ( we race well past the quarter mile )

Cooling Down:




Civic Type R Ep3 Vs Stock FN2




Got away slowly but in the end won by 10 car lengths or more, FN2 is just to heavy.

and some random porn, S15 silvia V8 :twisted:




Need to do a track day soon, the car is craving some corners.
#3839774
Well she has her dancing shoes on again:
Image

Which can mean only one thing - track day :-D .

Had a great day at knockhill open pit yesterday, weather was perfect and there were some nice machines out for a play. My fav was a couple probably in their 70's who turned up, put the walking stick in the back of their old catheram and went out for a blast on track. Truely amazing 8-) .

First vid is a shakedown to make sure that car was working well for carrying passengers:



My mate who has a DC5, so at least he was prepared for the experience:



And victim no 2:



Some more pics of the day:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
#3839857
N77 wrote:Must sort out a track day for me soon, considering that's why I wanted another haha.

Looking good
You have restored your car so much now that are you sure you want to take it on track? Looking at how mint your car is makes me feel guilty for kicking the crap out of my car all the time :LOL:
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3842612
Project rust bucket now comes to an end. Chassis has been restored and running gear replaced and finally the only rusty bit of bodywork has been sorted.

Back arches and inside the fuel filler cap were beginning to bubble under the paint. Took the car to Imy's ( Amazing Glasgow based painter) ( http://www.iabodyshop.co.uk/).

All of the rear the arches and lip of the quarter panel back to the back bumper taken back to the bare metal, etched primed and painted both on the lip and inside the arch. Looks better than new :). Will get some pics up once its daylight. Also the fuel filler cap was completely restored.

Some pics of the work:

Image

Image

Image

And results:

Image

Image
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3845803
Hey folks,

Finally got some bolt-ons for the car, Automek installed:

70mm ported and polished RBC
Tegiwa 4-2-1 Manifold
Skunk 2 Black series 70mm throttle body

Car also had a service and the valve clearances adjusted, before heading up to performance HQ in fife, Scotand for a remap. The car still has the TDI north 2.5inch unsilenced mid section and OEM backbox.

Some pics from the mapping:

Image

Image

Image

My immaculately clean bay :lol: , i think it rivals N77's , You could eat your dinner of if... you would die an hour later but you could.
Image

The car made 217bhp anf 152lb ft of torque ... wait for it... at the WHEELS! The guys at performance HQ said that is 18bhp up on anything they have ever seen that does not have serious engine work. They estimate 255-260 bhp at the crank. Needless to say it goes like a weaponised Civic, Vtec at 4600 rpm and limiter set to 8400. Peak power is 8250 rpm.
I guess it's safe to say the OEM backbox is definitely not restrictive :lol:

Image

Since i have a K100, they have to map it on a Kpro, then switch the map over onto my K100. This process took about 15 minutes and so due to heat soak the final test run was "only" 211 wheel BHP:


User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3846169
Stamford78 wrote:Just read through your whole thread and really enjoyed it. Picked up some great info on what way I may go next with mine. Great understanding of this brilliant car. Thanks.[emoji847]
Cheers!
Taken 5 years but i think she is finished now :D
If you have any questions regarding the car modifications feel free to ask
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3846174
Ry4n_ep3 wrote:Nice figures mate. Brace looks good in there! [emoji12]

She is far from finished......because that engine bay needs some serious attention lol.
haha yeah the braces are perfect, they even made the car feel a bit stiffer which i am surprised at. The only clean component in the bay :lol:

Yeah the bay is shocking, "unique" features include:
Stylish velcro pads on the gruppe m to stop it moving
a rectangular hole in the bonnet inner skin to accommodate the hydraulic steering rack
layers of waxoly literally slapped onto numerous bits to prevent rusting
Rocker cover sporting 30% paint coverage
13 year of accummulated dirt

And my personal favourate:
A rubber glove zip tied round the EPS sensor :lol:
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3846187
Chris_Ep3 wrote:Great build up mate, some nice power aswell! I've also done the dc5 rack conversion but I've got a question regarding this. Is your EPS light on? If not how did you get around this? Thanks
Hiya mate, how are you enjoying the DC5 steering? My EPS light is on yes, i was told it's an easy problem to sort. You can either:
1) Take the bulb out :lol:
2) Run an resistor across the sensor that matches the terminals its supposed to connect to. My tuner said he would do this, but as you may have guessed im like anti-OCD so it doesnt really bother me. I havent gone and reminded him to do it yet :). Hence the stylish rubber glove.

To be honest i heard that spoon reservoir socks give you +10bhp, i think my rubber glove gives at least +15 so its a win win IMO
  • 1
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 6
  • 7

Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]