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#3122743
2012:
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2013:
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2014:
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2015:
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2016:
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Spec Update 12/15*

Cheers to:

Automek
Tdi north

Suspension:
KW Variant 2 Adjustable Coilovers
JDM Rear ARB + Polybushes
JDM Front ARB + Polybushes
Eibach Front Camber Adjusters
Eibach Rear Camber Adjusters
Buddyclub Extended Ball Joints
Automek FRSU


Steering:
DC5 Hydraulic Steering rack conversion (aircon delete)
Tegiwa Steering Rack Raiser

Engine:
K100 Mapped by Russ at Performance HQ (217bhp and 152lbft at the wheels)
Tegiwa Carbon Airbox
Engine mount inserts
Tegiwa Sump Baffle Plates
70mm ported and polished RBC
70 mm Skunk2 black series brass butterfly throttlebody

Exhaust:
Tegiwa 4-2-1 Manifold (Toda replica)
TDi-North custom 2.5" unsilenced B pipe
OEM Backbox

Brakes:
Stoptech 328mm BBK
Stoptech stainless hoses
New OEM Calipers R
New OEM Discs R
Goodrich Stainless Hoses R
Motul RBF 600 Racing Fluid
Tegiwa master cylinder brake stopper
Stoptech blocks of wood (road)
Pagid rs42 blue (track)

Transmission:
Mfactory Helical LSD
New OEM Differential bearings
ACT 225 lb ft Clutch + bearings
ACT Prolite 9 lb Flywheel
Spoon 5.062 Final Drive

Chassis:
Energy Suspension Front Polybush Kit
Tegiwa Subframe Rigid Collar Kit
Powdercoated Subframe
Powdercoated Front Lower Control Arms
Full Underseal

Tyres:
Road: Continental Sport Contact 3
Track: Federal RSR


Cost breakdown

The bill from tdi north for the ecu, mapping, suspension set up, custom exhaust, tegiwa intake, jdm arb, bushes, camber adjusters and bolts was £2477 in 2011

Automek built the transmission for me in 2012 for £400 including: diff + bearings £650 , final drive £410, clutch £250, flywheel 220

Total for 2012 £1920

This year the track wheels and tyres cost me £600 all in
Automek fitted New rear caliper and discs and baffled sump for £350 all in
Automek supplied and fitted all this lot for £490; brakes £1500, £650 on the kw's ,£200 on the buddly clubs and the rack raiser

total for 2013 : £3750

So all in it costs about 8K to build a car to this spec, if you have a good ramp you can save a fair bit on labour! Even so it is very easy to fall off the deep end :lol:

2014:
DC5 hydraulic conversion £700

2015:
New Subframe, F LCA's, polybushes, drop links, rigid collar kit £600
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I'm well chuffed with the results, the cars handling has been massively improved. It now tracks perfectly straight even when going through standing water on motorways etc. the high speed stability is much improved also with greatly reduced body roll.

The engine is a completely different animal now, it makes as much torque low down as it used to at peak and when it comes on cam the 173ft lb of torque and accompanying sountrack is pretty addictive :D. The exhaust is almost as quiet as stock untill 5100 rpm - when it gets throaty :-D. A special thanks to the guys at TDi - north, the car is old and they had to cut alot of the old parts off. This meant working on the car till midnight to get the job done. Thoroughly professional and nice guys as well - a job well done!

The car is nearly how i want it, a front strut brace and reconditioned brakes will be the next jobs to get done :)
Last edited by D4Z3D on Thu Jul 28, 2016 9:57 pm, edited 40 times in total.
User avatar
By Lanky_CTR
#3122744
Looks like the car made some good power considering the mods its got and I can imagine how much different the handling is, I remember when I had my coilovers fitted on my old CTR, completely transformed the car.
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3122746
Yeah it seems like the 2.5" b pipe really is the key, seems to be a pretty restrictive part of the exhaust system. I had expected that the cat would be the main bottle neck - i only replaced the mid section because the original was nearly 9 years old and on its way out. Pretty surprised it had such a positive effect tbh. The handling is great, feels like a new car - only with less body roll :-D
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3339147
Little update with pics,

Replaced the braking system, front and rear calipers, new fluid and Goodrich hoses. Car has now been undersealed and also changed the transmission oil.

On order:

Mfactory Helical LSD,
Differential bearings
Lightened flywheel
New clutch

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User avatar
By andy.h
#3339221
Just read someone elses thread whos had a k100 done at tdi north with a race header, aem v2 and it had slightly more bhp and less torque hows that possible when this cars got a standard mani and cat.
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3339236
I think if it had an exhaust manifold and decat it would be making more power higher up the rev range - while sacrificing a little bit of mid range torque. At the moment i don't really rev it much past 7500 as the power and torque drops off. It's pretty easy to drive fast now but it struggles a bit in the wet with all that low down grunt. LSD should sort this out.
User avatar
By keithlou
#3339244
D4Z3D wrote:I think if it had an exhaust manifold and decat it would be making more power higher up the rev range - while sacrificing a little bit of mid range torque. At the moment i don't really rev it much past 7500 as the power and torque drops off. It's pretty easy to drive fast now but it struggles a bit in the wet with all that low down grunt. LSD should sort this out.
so day-to-day driving a better b-pipe will do? cos the print out does shows it has massive torque from these basic mods, and lets face it horsepower isn't that important
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3339264
It just depends what you want dude, if you go for a nice intake manifold, racing exhaust manifold , decat and catback you will probably see 240 - 250 bhp and around 160 - 170 lb ft or torque. I have toyed with the idea of going with that set up myself - the problem is the new legislation governing cat's. If you get stopped by a roadside test then u get fined - and you have to get a cat put on it. The map might not work very well either if its mapped without a cat - then the law force you to put one on it.

Basically i pussied out and just replaced the really restrictive mid section of the exhaust with a 2.5in unsilenced section. By keeping the cat, std mani and backbox its not much louder than stock unless you are in Vtec - where all you can hear is induction noise from the tegiwa M.

It is much quicker than stock in any gear at most revs, but you can feel it tailing off beyond 7700. I find if i shift around 7500 - 7700 i land right in the big torque zone and make lots of progress [smilie=karls_thumb.gif]. I only go up higher if i need to hang on to an overtake.

If you want your car to make useful power all the way up to the 8600 rpm limiter then you would probably be better going with the more highly modified set up - if you want to take the risk with the cat :wink:
User avatar
By *nub*
#3339266
D4Z3D wrote:It just depends what you want dude, if you go for a nice intake manifold, racing exhaust manifold , decat and catback you will probably see 240 - 250 bhp and around 160 - 170 lb ft or torque. I have toyed with the idea of going with that set up myself - the problem is the new legislation governing cat's. If you get stopped by a roadside test then u get fined - and you have to get a cat put on it. The map might not work very well either if its mapped without a cat - then the law force you to put one on it.

Basically i pussied out and just replaced the really restrictive mid section of the exhaust with a 2.5in unsilenced section. By keeping the cat, std mani and backbox its not much louder than stock unless you are in Vtec - where all you can hear is induction noise from the tegiwa M.

It is much quicker than stock in any gear at most revs, but you can feel it tailing off beyond 7700. I find if i shift around 7500 - 7700 i land right in the big torque zone and make lots of progress [smilie=karls_thumb.gif]. I only go up higher if i need to hang on to an overtake.

If you want your car to make useful power all the way up to the 8600 rpm limiter then you would probably be better going with the more highly modified set up - if you want to take the risk with the cat :wink:
Did you notice the car accelerates faster in general like 0-60?
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3339282
Showing my age here but TBH im not really a 0 - 60 man :lol:

I show my transmission some mechanical sympathy and get it rolling first. Most of the time where i use the cars performance is on our lovely b - roads up here ( as you can see from the pics :-D ). It makes stock peak torque from about 2500 rpm so it really does feel much more urgent all the time. The best way to describe it is it rushes towards vtec now where as when it was stock you felt like you were waiting for it. On the b-roads you don't need to rev the nuts off it to go quickly - much more accessible power.

I have no idea What kind of gains i would get by adding an RBC - but i get the feeling the cat is pretty restrictive so i doubt it would be much.
User avatar
By andy.h
#3339295
Think i might head down the same route when i get round to getting my car done. Ive already got a bigger b pipe and teg m fitted. Still debating about getting a shorty header and a sport cat with an rbc but with the costs and from looking at your map im wondering if its worth getting the extra parts or not.
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3339305
Hmm you should get the header etc and let me know what you make - so i can see if it is worth doing :lol:

Thing is, i have heard on here somewhere that the race header and un-silenced mid section can be a pain in the ass noise wise. So if you duplicate my set up and then want more power you might end up buying another mid section :???:
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3406759
Little update for august.

Just got the car back from Andy Baird up at Automek in East Kilbride. The transmission system has been rebuilt with lots of nice new shiny bits [smilie=karls_thumb.gif] .

At the moment i am having to run the new transmission in so i have not had the chance to use it properly yet. First impressions are that the engine mount inserts send more vibrations through the cabin but it is not as severe as i had expected. The only real time you notice it is idling in traffic when the thermostat kicks in, the engine revs drop and you feel the car vibrating a bit. When you are moving the vibrations are not noticable at all.

The new clutch/flywheel arrangement feels amazing, the pedal has less travel than it used to but the action is very smooth and not much heavier than OEM. The flywheel certainly does speed up engine response, rev matching is much easier on downshifts and there is absolutely no engine braking at all now.

The final drive is even better than i had imagined it would be, at the moment i have a rev limit of 4k due to running in the new clutch so i haven't been giving it plenty. The in gear acceleration in 5th and 6th is now very very nice - motorway overtaking is actually possible now :eek: . 3600 rpm @ 70 mph :lol:

Can't wait till its run in and i can abuse it :evil: :lol:
User avatar
By D4Z3D
#3447975
Just a quick update now that the new transmission is fully run in and i've had time with the car to learn to drive it. I use the car as a daily driver so hopefully some of my observations can be of use to people who use the cars all the time and are considering going down a similar tuning route.

Firsty the engine mount inserts:

The reason i had them installed was basically because i am considering more bolt ons for the engine in the future. I am planning on getting upgraded intake and exhaust manifolds. I forget which one it is, or if it is both, but basically if the engine moves too much (which it does with std mounts) one or both of the shiny new manifolds will crack and fail. I decided to try out the engine mount inserts before installing the new manifolds so i could see how badly the car vibrated, and if it was to much for a daily driver, remove them again. At first i didn't really notice much difference with the mounts, a slight vibration at idle in traffic but not very intrusive. In the past 6 weeks though a couple of interior rattles have started, one coming from the dashboard somewhere and another from the bonnet latch. In addition, the mounts transmit more sound from the exhaust through the chassis so the cabin is a fair bit louder than it was before - although it is not unbearable by any means. Overall they will make your car a bit less civilised for daily use, but you do get used to a bit more noise.I just bought some draught excluder tape from B &Q so i am going to tackle the rattles at the weekend :lol:

The ACT organic clutch:

The pedal travel is shorter than oem, but the operation is smooth and not much difference in terms of drivability.

ACT 9lb Flywheel:

I have found that the lightened flywheel does make the engine react much more quickly in all situations. It is very easy to rev match when changing down gears and you will notice when doing heel and toe that you require much less heel than before. Even if you don't get the match 100% right the engine has noticably less inertia, so basically no engine braking at all. The only thing i don't like about the flywheel is that it doesn't like slow gear changing going up the box. For example when you are on the way to work and are just accelerating gently and changing gears slowly at low revs - the engine revs drop off very quickly during gear changes and give a slightly jerky driving experience.

Mfactory LSD:

Having done alot of reading on LSD's i was expecting this to be the modifcation that would make the biggest difference to the car..... and this turned out to be very true. Adding an LSD Completely changes the cars handling. I have had to re-learn how to drive it. When the car had an open diff, the FRSU made it very balanced and easy to throw about. If you went into a corner quickly you could balance the throttle and drive through it, however if you gave it to much of the loud pedal mid corner it would spin the inside wheel and begin to understeer ( or just understeer on faster corners). Now with the diff, if you enter a corner quickly and make any throttle contact AT ALL you feel the nose of the car pull hard to the inside of the corner (meaning you have to let off some steering lock to compensate). The amount of front end grip the car has now is completely different, "night and day" to use a cliche!

The catch is that you have to really hold on to the steering wheel and drive the car - the steering wheel requires much more attention then it did before :lol: . In a straight line the diff is ok unless you are really going for it, when the car will pick up some of the dodgy cambers in the b roads up here and gently try to pull the steering wheel to one side or the other. The effect is not too extreme and you do get used to it - a small price to pay for a much more capable car.

In the wet the diff is very impressive, the extra traction and stability make it a much more enjoyable driving experience. You can even vtec in the wet :shock:

Spoon 5.062 Final Drive:

I don't rev my car past 8k rpm because of the current map i'm running, this combined with the 5.1FD means:

1st: 30mph
2nd: 50 mph
3rd: 70mph
4th 100 mph (on a track, honest officer)
5th --
6th --

I chose the 5.062 FD because it is basically a 10 - 15% torque increase, any gear, any time. When you are in daily driving mode it makes the car very easy to drive. You can use 5th from about 25mph and accelerate comfotably up to motorway speeds quicker than the surrounding traffic. When cruising at 70 mph on the motorway you are pulling 3600 - 3700 rpm so it is still pretty comfortable. I find that 80mph is a bit boomy at 4100 rpm and combined with the engine mount inserts, so this modification has actually made me drive slower on the motorways :lol: First and second gears are pretty brutal actually, it woud not surprise me if this is now a sub 6 sec car to 60. The combination with the LSD means you can nail it from the second the clutch is engaged and off you go, no fuss, just short sharp bursts of acceleration. For fast B road driving 3rd and 4th are all you will need as both pull much harder than they did withthe oem 4.7 FD. Thirs gear is basically half way betwen the old second and third, and 4th bewteen the old 3rd and 4th, so you get much more usable acceleration more usable speed ranges. I would definitely recommend this mod for people using their civics as fast road cars, for the track you could get away with a 5.46 FD, but it think this would lower 6th gear too much for comfortabel road use, and makde 1st gear useless.

Hope this has been atleast a bit useful to some folks wondering what those mods would be like on a daily.

Cheers !
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