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User avatar
By Keith Scarfe
#3866359
Hi.
My 03 CTR EP3 heater motor has stopped working. A brief internet search indicates this could be due to the resistor pack used to drop the fan speed or the motor itself or I guess the supply to it via the switch/fuse. I haven't been able to find a circuit or wiring diagram to help me fault find. I would like to understand the circuit so I can identify exactly which of these components needs replacing. I am guessing the resistor pack but it would be nice to know for sure before going and finding a new one. Would any one have a circuit diagram they could send to me please? Or any knowledge on how to fault find this circuit. Also I couldn't identify which fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay supplies the fan, it isn't obvious from the pictures printed on the lid. I did check every one in there except for the big square things that all seem to be open circuit (what are these?). Which one is it do yo know? I assume it isn't the fuse anyway as they are all good.
Thanks for any help.
Keith.
User avatar
By parsimony
#3866360
Here's the fuse list:
  • Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box
    Fuse Number Amps Wire Colour Component(s) or Circuit(s) Protected
    1 15A BLK/WHT Ignition coils
    2 - - Not used
    3 20A - Not used
    4 10A BLK/ORN Alternator, ELD unit, EVAP purge control solenoid valve, Primary HO2S, Secondary HO2S, Vehicle speed sensor, Reverse lockout solenoid, CMP sensor
    5 7.5A Fuse/relay box socket Multiplex control unit
    6 7.5A YEL/GRN Headlight adjuster switch, Headlight adjuster unit, Power window master switch
    7 20A - Not used
    8 7.5A Fuse/relay box socket Optional connector V, Multiplex control unit
    9 10A GRN Rear window wiper motor, Rear window washer motor, Rear window intermittent wiper control unit
    10 7.5A Fuse/relay box socket Multiplex control unit
    YEL Back-up lights, EPS control unit, Gauge assembly, Keyless receiver unit, Security control unit
    11 7.5A BLK/ORN ABS modulator-control unit
    12 - - Not used
    13 10A PNK SRS unit
    14 10A Fuse/relay box socket Optional connector V
    BLK/YEL Blower motor relay, Heater control panel, Power mirror actuator, Power mirror defogger, Radiator fan relay, Rear window defogger relay, Recirculation control motor
    15 30A - Not used
    16 20A - Not used
    17 15A BLK/YEL Inertia switch, SRS unit
    YEL/BLK ECM, Fuel pump
    18 15A YEL/GRN Cigarette lighter
    19 7.5A YEL/BLK Turn signal/hazard relay
    20 20A Fuse/relay box socket Multiplex control unit
    GRN/BLK Windshield wiper motor, Windshield washer motor
    21 - - Not used
    22 20A GRN/BLK Passenger's power window motor
    23 20A GRN/WHT Driver's power window motor
    24 - - Not used
    25 - - Not used
Added in 8 minutes 54 seconds:
Also:
CTR Wiring.gif
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#3866361
>Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box

"Under dash". Oh dear. I guess by this there is a second fuse box inside the car is there? I thought it was just the one in the engine bay. I didn't know this. What a numpty. I will try to find this and I hope this fuse has blown. Number 14 then.
Failing that, thanks for the diagram. I shall be able to fault find it.
Thanks. :oops:
User avatar
By DirtyTypeR
#3866583
Keith Scarfe wrote:>Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box

"Under dash". Oh dear. I guess by this there is a second fuse box inside the car is there? I thought it was just the one in the engine bay. I didn't know this. What a numpty. I will try to find this and I hope this fuse has blown. Number 14 then.
Failing that, thanks for the diagram. I shall be able to fault find it.
Thanks. :oops:
Did you get this sorted? as i've suddenly got a similar issue on my Ep3 2003 type R...blower dial when turned on (right) nothing happens, though when on the motorway there is warm air trickling thru with the motion of the car... if i move the dial to cold it goes cold trickling.. it's as if the blower itself has failed.. or fuze/resister.. strangely this morning the blower kicked in for 5 mins when i started the car and tried it, and then went off..
#3866584
Hi Dirty.
Yes I did sort it out and it turned out to be a relatively easy fix actually. With the help of the wiring diagram above I identified that it was actually the module itself that was dead - called 'power transistor' in the drawing. All the fuses hence power supplies were OK. It is located in the air flow pipe behind the glove box so, after getting to it by removing the glove box and the ECU (all quite obvious) I could remove it and what I did to test is to connect a wire via a switch from the -ve connection on the motor (push on spade type connection IIRC) and earth (nearby bolt on the chassis). I could then turn the fan on (at full blast) and off using this switch. I ran it like this for a few days while I ordered a new part. I got mine off ebay from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Willkey-Heat ... ctupt=true
It was dead cheap, fits, works perfectly and has been good ever since.
Regards.
Keith.
User avatar
By DirtyTypeR
#3866586
Keith Scarfe wrote:Hi Dirty.
Yes I did sort it out and it turned out to be a relatively easy fix actually. With the help of the wiring diagram above I identified that it was actually the module itself that was dead - called 'power transistor' in the drawing. All the fuses hence power supplies were OK. It is located in the air flow pipe behind the glove box so, after getting to it by removing the glove box and the ECU (all quite obvious) I could remove it and what I did to test is to connect a wire via a switch from the -ve connection on the motor (push on spade type connection IIRC) and earth (nearby bolt on the chassis). I could then turn the fan on (at full blast) and off using this switch. I ran it like this for a few days while I ordered a new part. I got mine off ebay from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Willkey-Heat ... ctupt=true
It was dead cheap, fits, works perfectly and has been good ever since.
Regards.
Keith.
super thanks all!! :D :D I'll give it a go!

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