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Down A Bit, Down A Bit, That's It...
User avatar
By evilowl
#1926702
Not really. I like my car set up to be very neutrally balanced and it transitions very quickly into oversteer when provoked. It also wears tyres out pretty fast but that's ok as it's purely a weekend toy for me, I only do 3 or 4000 miles a year (and the majority being dry miles at that) so going through one set of tyres a year is fine.

If you do 12000 miles a year in all weather and use your car everyday for commuting you certainly wouldn't want to be spending out on new tyres every 3000 - 4000 miles.
User avatar
By chiffs
#1939170
mcborg wrote:Read most posts about "Fast Road Setup".
Having raced a FWD to club and class championships (track, motokana, hillclimbs, autocross) I have a competition setup that worked for me:

Front.
Zero toe.
3.0 degrees negative camber.
5 degrees positive castor.

Rear.
2.0mm toe out
1.5 degrees negative camber.

For a "Fast Road Setup" I would change the setup to:

Front.
Zero toe.
1.5 degrees negative camber.
5 degrees positive castor.

Rear.
2.0mm toe out.
1.0 degrees negative camber.

I don't agree with:
1mm toe out at front,
2mm toe in at rear.

Cheers,

Rob.

Rob would this be a good base to start with for a every day car that does get some fast road action too?
User avatar
By BrunoCTR
#1941133
well i think that -2 toe at rear is still a bit agressive for road. i'd go for 0 toe at front and rear but using the jdm 22mm rear arb (in oposition to the stock 18mm)
User avatar
By RevHard
#1941277
For road I use

1 deg toe out front
1 deg toe in rear

-0.5 deg camb front
-1.25 deg cam rear
User avatar
By RevHard
#1975682
pinjas wrote:1 deg toe out front
1 deg toe in rear

-0.5 deg camb front
-1.25 deg cam rear


itoe e camb??? what does it mean
In your mother language:

toe - stekanje koles
camber angle - nagib koles
User avatar
By JayKDC5
#1976387
chiffs wrote:
mcborg wrote:Read most posts about "Fast Road Setup".
Having raced a FWD to club and class championships (track, motokana, hillclimbs, autocross) I have a competition setup that worked for me:

Front.
Zero toe.
3.0 degrees negative camber.
5 degrees positive castor.

Rear.
2.0mm toe out
1.5 degrees negative camber.

For a "Fast Road Setup" I would change the setup to:

Front.
Zero toe.
1.5 degrees negative camber.
5 degrees positive castor.

Rear.
2.0mm toe out.
1.0 degrees negative camber.

I don't agree with:
1mm toe out at front,
2mm toe in at rear.

Cheers,

Rob.

Rob would this be a good base to start with for a every day car that does get some fast road action too?
I thinnk this would be well out for the road, 2mm toe out at the rear would loosen the back end grip to prevent understeer, or you can just run 0 - 1mm toe out all round, -1 camber on front, and loose up the rear and prevent understeer -2 camber on rear.

There are may ways and your driving style, if you want to "steer with the rear" wack the toe out on the rear. Ive ran -1.5 camber at front, -3 camber rear, and slight toe out all around and loved it but the rear type wear is too much.

**Just like to add all my experience is based on the DC5 as ive had 3, but never had a CTR, so what i have said maybe irrelavent, lol** But shouldnt be to far out.

My current setup adjusted yesterday as i changed to Tein Flex Coilovers, is for road use really as i wont be on the track this year so will save my tyres. I'll post it up later.

Jay
User avatar
By mcborg
#2078673
I made an error on my first post about the rear toe :roll: . Should have been "toe in.
Edited the post on October17th.
As punishment I have polished my CW JDM EP3 TypeR R-01814 Reg: FASTR to within an inch of it's life.

The car I raced, Mitsubishi Mirage RS :twisted: , had a lot of understeer and needed toe out to get good corner manners.
After reading numerous posts, I understand that the EP3 has the opposite handling traits and can be a bit tail happy if you get off the power mid corner :shock: . The toe in at the rear should reduce the oversteer :thumbup:

Cheers,

Rob.
User avatar
By BrunoCTR
#2079478
no, really, its the oposite of what u are thinking

from factory the type-r has alot of understeer (most of FWD cars, if not all, come from factory with a understeer tendency cause its easier and safer to control)

to counter this u will need a thicker rear sway, or thiner tyres at rear, or 0 toe, or toe out, more camber at front than at rear, more rebound at rear, increase rear spring ratio till the double of what u have at front

or a most obvious a mix between all these.
User avatar
By evilowl
#2081958
You're both correct!

The natural balance of the car is a tendency to understeer under power. The more power you try and lay mid bend, the further to the outside you'll actually travel.

However, if you lift off the power sharply (or brake) mid corner, then the car can transition into oversteer very quickly.

The best fast road setup is the one that suits your driving style and abilities, as well as balancing your priorities between an all out track car with huge camber and therefore massive tyre wear against longevity on the road, as stated back on page 1. It's not a case of "1 size fits all settings". What works best for me is unlikely to work best for you and vice versa :thumbup:
User avatar
By project90
#2243656
what would be the best rear setting to stop the noise that comes from the rear tyres from insides edge wear? am geting mine looked at on tuesday and any settings to try would be great.

the tyres done about 6k miles and the noise has came back. the car just for general commuting i got the adjustable camber arms from abp.

any help would be great on this guys

thanks
User avatar
By ep-greeny
#2422557
aFter Reading through this thread it's exactly what I was looking for. I do alot of geometry work with a beissbarth machine so understand the in's and outs of what's being explained, I also know that 1-2degrees of camber can usually be adjusted oem so ate front and rear camber bolts really recessary or haven't ep3's got any camber adjustment??
User avatar
By Johan78
#2618328
ep-greeny wrote:aFter Reading through this thread it's exactly what I was looking for. I do alot of geometry work with a beissbarth machine so understand the in's and outs of what's being explained, I also know that 1-2degrees of camber can usually be adjusted oem so ate front and rear camber bolts really recessary or haven't ep3's got any camber adjustment??
There is no camber adjustments in an EP3 as standard.
User avatar
By LLH
#2693240
Just thinking..


If i add camber on the front with camber bolts, will the toe change? I mean, the strut/shock stays in the same location, i just move the hub towards the center of the car at the top?

If i had used camber plates th toe will have changed since im moving the hole strut..
User avatar
By Newannaive
#2693246
The toe will change because the distance from centre of the rack to the tie rod end/strut arm will change.
User avatar
By Shamak
#2817199
Hi
I lowered my car on ABP Eibach springs -30 mm with camber bolts and rear D2 Racing - Camber Kit
Here is FRSU spec from u know ;-)

Image

and here is what the other garege did

Image

to be honest I don't understand the toe as on FRSU spec is in MM and on garage print is in deg.
What you think is it close what should I get ? (I know that front camber is a bit bigger than on FRSU not bother it)

Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]