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Down A Bit, Down A Bit, That's It...
User avatar
By niffty
#1821558
Hi...
Does anyone out there know the factory geometry angles on the EP3 on 04 reg. :vconf: :vconf: :vconf:

I think my rear cambers out and is driving abit wierd & wearing in my rear tyres from the inside. :bad-words:

Need to set them back to factory settings, so I can get a better drive.

Thanks in advance... :thumbup:
User avatar
By evilowl
#1821615
Factory settings should be:

Camber Front = 0°00' +or- 45'
Camber Rear = -0°45' +or- 45'
Caster Front = 1°33' +or- 1°

Total Toe Front = 0 +or-3 mm
Rear Adjust = Toe In 2mm +2 or-1 mm
User avatar
By niffty
#1821672
evilowl wrote:Factory settings should be:

Camber Front = 0°00' +or- 45'
Camber Rear = -0°45' +or- 45'
Caster Front = 1°33' +or- 1°

Total Toe Front = 0 +or-3 mm
Rear Adjust = Toe In 2mm +2 or-1 mm

Cheers Evil owl you da man! :thumbup:
User avatar
By evilowl
#1821681
Depends where you go, how you like your car to handle and how much tyre wear you are willing to put up with

Try:

Camber front = -1
Camber rear = -1

Toe out front = 1mm
Toe in rear = 1mm

and go from there
User avatar
By RickHondaR
#1821865
evilowl wrote:Depends where you go, how you like your car to handle and how much tyre wear you are willing to put up with

Try:

Camber front = -1
Camber rear = -1

Toe out front = 1mm
Toe in rear = 1mm

and go from there
i was told fast road setup handles better and less tyre wear, is this correct?
User avatar
By mcborg
#1824523
Read most posts about "Fast Road Setup".
Having raced a FWD to club and class championships (track, motokana, hillclimbs, autocross) I have a competition setup that worked for me:

Front.
Zero toe.
3.0 degrees negative camber.
5 degrees positive castor.

Rear.
2.0mm toe in.
1.5 degrees negative camber.

For a "Fast Road Setup" I would change the setup to:

Front.
Zero toe.
1.5 degrees negative camber.
5 degrees positive castor.

Rear.
2.0mm toe in.
1.0 degrees negative camber.

Cheers,

Rob.
Last edited by mcborg on Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:26 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By mcborg
#1825523
Tyre wear is a product of your driving style.
If you have a Honda, especially a Type R, you probably don't drive like a Nana :wink:

A FWD car suffers most tyre wear on the outside of the front tyres with a standard wheel alignment and enthusiastic driving.The result is understeer :sad:

More negative camber, on the front, reduces wear on the outside, creates more wear on the inside of the front tyres BUT reduces understeer :cool:
With a "Fast Road Setup" the idea is to find a compromise between wear and performance.

The faster you drive the more "performance" orientated your alignment.

If you wanted to be precise, mark the sidewalls, inside and out, of your front tyres with chalk. Drive around for a few days, at your normal pace, and then see whether the chalk is worn off the same on the inside and outside sidewalls. The ideal would be the same inside and outside. (Make sure your tyre pressures are the same, probably 36psi)

If the chalk has worn away to the edge of your mags, go for the "FULL RACE" settings :-D

Cheers,

Rob.
User avatar
By RickHondaR
#1836185
evilowl wrote:Depends where you go, how you like your car to handle and how much tyre wear you are willing to put up with

Try:

Camber front = -1
Camber rear = -1

Toe out front = 1mm
Toe in rear = 1mm

and go from there
is this the typical fas road setup that tends to be better on tyres but handles better?
User avatar
By evilowl
#1836267
They are generic settings that form the basis of the geometry you can try.

They are not the be all and end all of settings, just a starting point. If you want to change any of the settings to suit your car setup or your driving style there is nothing stopping you.

Take your car to a local specialist and discuss your needs with them and they will advise you better. And FYI none of them will just give you a bunch of settings for you to use elsewhere because they need to protect their income
User avatar
By RickHondaR
#1836276
evilowl wrote:They are generic settings that form the basis of the geometry you can try.

They are not the be all and end all of settings, just a starting point. If you want to change any of the settings to suit your car setup or your driving style there is nothing stopping you.

Take your car to a local specialist and discuss your needs with them and they will advise you better. And FYI none of them will just give you a bunch of settings for you to use elsewhere because they need to protect their income
no i asked if they would give me the settings they put on my car when i leave so if any probs can get sorted local they said no :bad-words: now i can get them by going home and getting car tracking etc checked but dont feel i should have to pay for that
User avatar
By RickHondaR
#1837936
i should not have to pay to find out what someone has set my car upto, if i pay for a service they should if asked tell me what they have done or am i missing something here :scratch:
Its not like i wanted the info for free i was more than happy to pay them to do it but would like to know exactly what they have done.
Do you go to the dealer for a service go to collect your car find out you have a £800 bill due to extra works pay it and dont care what they have done? I dont think so :salut:
User avatar
By -=Stella Artois=-
#1837939
I think the issue is not about what work is involved in the cost, but what knowledge and expertise you are paying for:

For Example: When you purchase software for your computer, say a paint package, you pay for what the product will do, but this does not give you ownership of the intellectual rights to the code that was used to generate that software, only a license to use it.

With the tuning companies, you pay for the result of the work carried out and own that result, not the knowledge/intellectual property that was used to derive that result. If they gave out all their facts and figure, how are they meant to keep that one step ahead in a cut throat market. As soon as you have the figures you,as you expressed would go elsewhere. They will have shot themselves in the foot. Just my thoughts.
User avatar
By -=Stella Artois=-
#1846860
mcborg wrote:Tyre wear is a product of your driving style.
If you have a Honda, especially a Type R, you probably don't drive like a Nana :wink:

A FWD car suffers most tyre wear on the outside of the front tyres with a standard wheel alignment and enthusiastic driving.The result is understeer :sad:
If the chalk has worn away to the edge of your mags, go for the "FULL RACE" settings :-D
Image

Image

:shock: :shock:

A bit like that you mean! :oops:
User avatar
By scrob
#1925929
I'd be interested in finding out decent settings for this so called "fast road setup", my local tyre specialist has 4 wheel alignment/camber etc facilities and charges £40 for the setup, so I may as well make the most of it while I'm getting my rear negative camber sorted out!

I assume the castor on a CTR isn't adjustable?

Also, by "eye", my front wheels appear to have slight positive camber on standard suspension, if this turns out to be the case can it be taken back to neutral without buying camber arms?
User avatar
By evilowl
#1926516
There are no specific settings other than the basics which I have written above. You need to speak to an expert who will set the car up to your specific needs based on your driving style. That's why it costs more than £40.

Compare it to a suit from Next vs a Saville Row fully tailored job.

The Next suit might look ok but it won't fit perfectly, which is why people pay a lot of money for the bespoke service, and because no 2 people are the same - the bespoke measurements for me most likely wouldn't fit you very well.
User avatar
By scrob
#1926646
Fully tailored setup is only really needed for competition use imo, bit overkill for the road. But I fully agree, it is far superior to a few general settings and hence yes, costs more money :thumbup:

I just feel that while I'm getting 4 wheel alignment done, I may as well make full use of the guys and have a few subtle enhancements done such as a little negative camber, and some toe in/out. Was really just looking for some general advice on what these cars respond well to..

Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]