Civic Type-R Owners Club & Forum

Hello.

Quick question about upgrading the air induction kit on the CTR:

What does it do?

Is there a performance hike or is it just to make it sound better?

Thanks for your patience with someone who knows f*ck all about these things.

There is both a performance hike and a sounds hike. I bought it for performance, sounds is just a by-product of it.

I purchased the ABP motorsport kit which was very easy to install (15mins.) They claim +14HP. Not sure if it's quite 14 but it's made a noticable difference. The car feels more alive and pulls stronger throught the whole VTEC range, not just peak at 7400RPM like standard.

Thanks Miracle.

Are they really that easy to install? I know absolutely bugger all about DIY when it comes to cars.

Is it something I could fit myself with the right manual or is it better to get a garage to do it?

And would anything else need upgrading to cope with the power increase or can you just bang the kit in and go?

Cheers.

If you want a sound increase then get an open induction filter.

If you want a power increase (and a nice sound too) get a closed box system such as a carbon fibre one.

You are not going to notice a performance increase, 5-10 bhp to the road if that? is the most you can expect to acheive from a filter alone. That added to 197 bhp is almost unnoticeable unless it behaves differently (we will see)

The reason I got one is for the sound, Awesome!

As for fitting If you are not confident in your ability to DIY I would not try it but it really is easy to do, seems silly to pay someone to do it, I'm pretty crap myself because I like to lick cows udders and I dont like trying to rip things apart, too caucious but I will be fitting mine myself or with a little help from my friends

Thanks for the replies.

I'm not fussed about improving the sound. I'm just after a bit more power.

HyacinthBucket wrote:If you want a sound increase then get an open induction filter.

If you want a power increase (and a nice sound too) get a closed box system such as a carbon fibre one.

You will get a BHP increase with an open filter, you often hear people say that cone filters suck in hot air from the engine bay, and this affects performance. But the gains far outweigh the losses. For example, on the CTR, the induction kit gives between 5 and 12 BHP gain, and when the temperature of the incoming air rises (only happens when stationary) you only lose about 2-3 BHP, but bear in mind the moment the car starts moving, the temperature drops to within a few degrees of the ambient air temperature.

This is a fact.

TazType-R wrote:

HyacinthBucket wrote:If you want a sound increase then get an open induction filter.

If you want a power increase (and a nice sound too) get a closed box system such as a carbon fibre one.

You will get a BHP increase with an open filter, you often hear people say that cone filters suck in hot air from the engine bay, and this affects performance. But the gains far outweigh the losses. For example, on the CTR, the induction kit gives between 5 and 12 BHP gain, and when the temperature of the incoming air rises (only happens when stationary) you only lose about 2-3 BHP, but bear in mind the moment the car starts moving, the temperature drops to within a few degrees of the ambient air temperature.

This is a fact.

Thanks Taz. I might have to look into getting one of these.

Like I said - I wouldn't add anything just to improve the sound but if it's going go faster and sound better then that's fine with me.

Presumably fitting one of these fellas would void the warranty...

Mummock wrote:Thanks Taz. I might have to look into getting one of these.

Like I said - I wouldn't add anything just to improve the sound but if it's going go faster and sound better then that's fine with me.

Presumably fitting one of these fellas would void the warranty...

Would not affect the warranty.....only IF the fault could be a result of the new filter being the cause.

Try talking to Tachbrook Honda, they fit an induction kit in a 'sports' upgrade to the car. You'd hope they wouldn't be selling you a car that already has its warranty invalidated. There is a thread about it on the forum somewhere.

You may pay more to have them fit it - but weigh this up against the loss of your warranty. Might be worth it, might not.

TazType-R wrote:
Would not affect the warranty.....only IF the fault could be a result of the new filter being the cause.

Has anyone had this in writing? - from what I remember reading here, lots of dealers have said this but the response I got from Honda UK was if you used Honda approved parts, then it didn't invalidate the warranty. (They didn't actually say that using non-approved parts invalidated the warranty).

cthomas01 wrote:

TazType-R wrote:
Would not affect the warranty.....only IF the fault could be a result of the new filter being the cause.

Has anyone had this in writing? - from what I remember reading here, lots of dealers have said this but the response I got from Honda UK was if you used Honda approved parts, then it didn't invalidate the warranty. (They didn't actually say that using non-approved parts invalidated the warranty).

Right - so it sounds like it might be a case of - ring Honda before you buy anything and make sure you get their approval for the part you're fitting.

Why bother, just change it back in the event of a problem.

Dead easy to fit. Anyone who says that you will not notice a performance inccrease is talking out of their backside, or they don't have their fitted properly, or don#t push the car hard enough to tell. If i've got a noticablke increase from buying the cheapest and supposedly worst ABP filter there's plenty to be had from the more expensive options.

If you need convining taz, read here:

http://forum.hondarevolutions.com/viewt ... sc&start=0

I'm sure you would have read it already though?

HyacinthBucket wrote:If you need convining taz, read here:

http://forum.hondarevolutions.com/viewt ... sc&start=0

I'm sure you would have read it already though?

Yes i had read that thread, but the first entry, clarifies my statement.

"Just for those that may be interested .

We have a lot of talk about CAI's and whether they make any difference etc....

Well I eventually got the intake done on the ITR yesterday .

The filter had been sitting in the enigne bay on a longish intake pipe.
It's now in the inner wing .
I'm not going to say whether I felt any benefits or not. That would be purely subjective opinion.

But here are some facts.

The intake air temperature used to read 34 degrees under normal use.
Rising to 38 degrees when stationary.
Since putting it in cold air the temp when stationary is still about 38 degrees. (the temp sensor is at the throttle body I believe).
But within 300 yrds of moving, it falls to about 24 degrees.
Normal running temperature is now approx 20 degrees .
This is without any air feed to the filter .

I think there is a formula for calculating gains in respect of intake temperature if anyone knows it . (although I doubt it would be too accurate)"

If i am reading it right, he relocated the filter away from, the main heat area, to the wing, cooler area and the temp drop when moving was down 4 degrees. Now with the added induction of cold air, which is very easy, this will drop further still.

The main point is how much cooler the air is, when the car really needs it..ie when moving, with ram air feed this should not cause a problem.

The temperature drop under normal use was actually 14 degrees, quite substantial.

Even if you have a cold feed pointing at a filter it can still draw in the warm air from the engine (especially considering the CTR intake is so close to so many danger areas). The fact that Jon had moved the filter away from the engine to an area which was not subject to warm air, is the main point.

Which is what I am trying to say to you (and others).

TazType-R wrote: For example, on the CTR, the induction kit gives between 5 and 12 BHP gain, and when the temperature of the incoming air rises (only happens when stationary) you only lose about 2-3 BHP, but bear in mind the moment the car starts moving, the temperature drops to within a few degrees of the ambient air temperature.

This is a fact.

I think you'll find that the power drop can be anything up to 11% ( i have an article somewhere with this exact figure, although not on a K20A).
The temp will also rise on light throttle. It will take time for the incoming air once moving again to cool down the intake manifold, by heating up the incoming air...

Oh, and remember that peak BHP gains mean pretty much 0...