The largest Civic Type R club forum

Established in 2002 it brings together people from all over the world to discuss their one love of Type R's.

Let it breathe...
User avatar
By evilowl
#2078996
aleung2 wrote:How come some people who have the V2 swear by them and say the complete opposite to what most people say, i.e. better low rev torque, better vtec kick etc?
Look up the term placebo effect in the dictionary. People have spent a couple of hundred quid on their cars and don't like being told the truth, or just refuse to accept it. As above, the noise from an open cone kit will make it sound like the car is faster but it really isn't. This has always been the case with open cone kits, talk to any good tuner or mechanic worth his salt and they will tell you to avoid them.
aleung2 wrote:So long as it feels better or the same as stock when driving normally then I'll be happy with it.
You may as well stay stock then!
User avatar
By aleung2
#2079067
evilowl wrote:
aleung2 wrote:So long as it feels better or the same as stock when driving normally then I'll be happy with it.
You may as well stay stock then!
I say that because I spend most of the time driving nicely and slowly but some of the time driving harder but if I got an induction kit that was good at the top end but rubbish low down then I'd have wasted my money.

Think I'll do the Hondata mod and drop in filter instead and get an unsilenced B-pipe for the same money :thumbup:
User avatar
By Newannaive
#2079124
you know this thing everyone says about how the v2 is alright once moving because there is air moving through the engine bay..?? can someone just explain to me how this air is getting in and out of the bay, because I am struggling to get my head round it, thanks :thumbup:

please bear in mind the amount of air the filter will be gobbling up at high rpm's and also the amount of air needed to dispel the heat from the exhaust manifold/engine etc. which when added together is quite a substantial amount of air needed to pass through the engine bay to make this theory a sound one....cheers boys. :thumbup:
User avatar
By Newannaive
#2079348
evilowl wrote:I asked this back on page 1 mate

http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/view ... a#p2052095

Unfortunately I didn't get an answer :lol:
ah, found it.. :thumbup:
Excess heat escapes the engine bay as the volume of air that passes through the radiator and the open wheel arch areas (especially on the O/S of the EP3) cause such a high volume of airflow that the air under the bonnet is constantly replaced / recharged. Your statement that warm air doesn't escape from the rear of the engine bay is ludicrous,

air travels through the radiator, it's so obvious I don't know why I didn't think of it before, that'll be why dyno operators always leave the bonnet closed then. Of course theres no reason to open the bonnet and let the heat out, why would there be? air will just pass through the front of the car. So simple it's brilliant! :salut:
and as if that wasn't enough awesome air travel, there's the obvious benefits from the air guidance system, or wheel arches as we know them. When combined the flow rate will literally pick your car off the floor...be careful out there people.
User avatar
By karl
#2080418
anyone who thinks the warm air won't be drawn out of the engine bay when the car is in motion, by the vacum effect of the cold air rushing past the exposed underside of the engine bay, coupled with the dispertion of said warm air by the influx of cold air through the grill, needs to read up on thermodynamics. it's just like opening the window with the heaters blowing on full, you will never feel the heat as it is removed from the car by the vacum effect caused by motion, and what do you think replaces that warm air? cold air perhaps? :lol:
User avatar
By Newannaive
#2080440
ah, an expert... :wink:

what speed would you say the car would need to be travelling at, to create enough of a vacuum effect to replace all the hot air with cold..?
User avatar
By karl
#2080696
when the car is moving it creates a pressure difference between the vessel and the outside, so any motion is enough to do this, but to completely clear the engine bay, I'm not 100% sure, but there wouldn't be any part of the engine bay that would allow a built up of static air when the car is moving, so there is always going to be a degree of warm air within the engine compartment since that is where it is being generated, but a static pocket is what would be required to cause serious heatsoak, and that can only happen at standstill, that's why rolling road tests are conducted with the bonnet open, I would hazzard a guess though, that anywhere above 25-30mph would make it very difficult to trap air in an engine bay :wink:
User avatar
By torch1
#2080712
karl wrote:when the car is moving it creates a pressure difference between the vessel and the outside, so any motion is enough to do this, but to completely clear the engine bay, I'm not 100% sure, but there wouldn't be any part of the engine bay that would allow a built up of static air when the car is moving, so there is always going to be a degree of warm air within the engine compartment since that is where it is being generated, but a static pocket is what would be required to cause serious heatsoak, and that can only happen at standstill, that's why rolling road tests are conducted with the bonnet open, I would hazzard a guess though, that anywhere above 25-30mph would make it very difficult to trap air in an engine bay :wink:
at last someone talking sense that knows what they're on about! :thumbup:
User avatar
By Newannaive
#2080889
karl wrote:when the car is moving it creates a pressure difference between the vessel and the outside, so any motion is enough to do this, but to completely clear the engine bay, I'm not 100% sure, but there wouldn't be any part of the engine bay that would allow a built up of static air when the car is moving, so there is always going to be a degree of warm air within the engine compartment since that is where it is being generated, but a static pocket is what would be required to cause serious heatsoak, and that can only happen at standstill, that's why rolling road tests are conducted with the bonnet open, I would hazzard a guess though, that anywhere above 25-30mph would make it very difficult to trap air in an engine bay :wink:
"not sure", "hazard a guess" - doesn't sound convincing enough for me, heat soak lives on... :wink:

re; the dyno bonnet thingy though, what difference is there between driving along the road, and putting a huge fan in front of the car whilst on the dyno..??...air is travelling around the front of the car the same is it not..? why open the bonnet..??..to falsify the results so they can keep selling crappy air filters to the ignorant...thats why. :cool:
User avatar
By evilowl
#2080984
karl wrote:when the car is moving it creates a pressure difference between the vessel and the outside, so any motion is enough to do this, but to completely clear the engine bay, I'm not 100% sure, but there wouldn't be any part of the engine bay that would allow a built up of static air when the car is moving, so there is always going to be a degree of warm air within the engine compartment since that is where it is being generated, but a static pocket is what would be required to cause serious heatsoak, and that can only happen at standstill, that's why rolling road tests are conducted with the bonnet open, I would hazzard a guess though, that anywhere above 25-30mph would make it very difficult to trap air in an engine bay :wink:
Unfortunately the CTR doesn't have massive bonnet vents. The only way for excess hot air to escape is underneath the car, and hot air does not fall, nor does it get sucked out by air moving underneath the car.
#2081314
evilowl wrote:You mean the one that requires you to buy a new engine when you inadvertently drive through a deep puddle? No thanks, but feel free to take the risk if you want
Can you not get anything to cover the filter to stop this? im sure i have seen some sock looking things to go over them? surely you would have to be driving through a really deep puddle for water to reach the filter?

Forgetting the deep puddle issues, does the v1 cai produce more power than a standard air box in 'real life'?
User avatar
By Newannaive
#2081321
graduate106 wrote:
evilowl wrote:You mean the one that requires you to buy a new engine when you inadvertently drive through a deep puddle? No thanks, but feel free to take the risk if you want
Can you not get anything to cover the filter to stop this? im sure i have seen some sock looking things to go over them? surely you would have to be driving through a really deep puddle for water to reach the filter?

Forgetting the deep puddle issues, does the v1 cai produce more power than a standard air box in 'real life'?

yes, it's one of the top 2 for gains iirc...
User avatar
By Damian1
#2088561
I've had the hondata'd box with oem filter for a while now so decided to put a k&n filter in it. What a differance! Car is smoother,more responsive and sounds a tad better. Quite surprised as I wasn't expecting much!
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