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User avatar
By Miracle
#624069
kamion wrote:
9 Remove the pads, and when re-fitting, apply a small amount of high melting point grease (copaslip or similar) to the top and bottom of the pads as seen here.
Sorry, I don't see what you mean by "top and bottom" of the pads. Where do you apply the grease? What is the purpose of the grease? Thanks. :)
Copper Grease - You normally place this on the back of the pad between the pad and the shimmy (the silver bit you clip onto the pad.) It's purpose is to prevent the brakes squeeling.
User avatar
By mike_wall15
#1138413
Nice guide.... any torque settings available?

Cheers

Mike
User avatar
By mr bilko!
#1139014
mike_wall15 wrote:Nice guide.... any torque settings available?

Cheers

Mike
Yes Mike.

Caliper carrier to hub is 55Nm (if you change discs these have to be removed)

Caliper to carrier is 23Nm.

Road wheel is 108Nm.
User avatar
By mike_wall15
#1139242
mr bilko! wrote:
mike_wall15 wrote:Nice guide.... any torque settings available?

Cheers

Mike
Yes Mike.

Caliper carrier to hub is 55Nm (if you change discs these have to be removed)

Caliper to carrier is 23Nm.

Road wheel is 108Nm.
Excellent, it is now the perfect guide, top stuff! 8)
(I'm really fussy with torque settings, I've spent too much time ruining things because they've been done up too tight, and as I'm no mechanic I find it hard to make an educated guess based on previous experience.)

Cheers! :D
User avatar
By rico83
#2134417
Thanks for this guide - I've done the fronts a few times now with no issues however I have a question RE the rears.

If I jack the rear only, won't the car start rolling? I know it sounds dumb but I've never jacked the rear up (at both axles at the same time) - I know that the handbrake works on the rear wheels as I can spin the front wheels when jacked up at the front only. I dont have chockes so will large blocks of wood (chopped up fence post) be OK?

Got pads so just need to fit em!
User avatar
By mike_wall15
#2134528
rico83 wrote:Thanks for this guide - I've done the fronts a few times now with no issues however I have a question RE the rears.

If I jack the rear only, won't the car start rolling? I know it sounds dumb but I've never jacked the rear up (at both axles at the same time) - I know that the handbrake works on the rear wheels as I can spin the front wheels when jacked up at the front only. I dont have chockes so will large blocks of wood (chopped up fence post) be OK?

Got pads so just need to fit em!
Put your car into gear, 3rd for instance, take the handbrake off, and the car will hardly move. This, together with some blocks of wood (what you have is ok) in front of each wheel will be fine.

Mike :thumbup:
User avatar
By rico83
#2134549
Awesome Mike, thanks for the speedy response! :thumbup:
User avatar
By mike_wall15
#2134565
rico83 wrote:Awesome Mike, thanks for the speedy response! :thumbup:
No worries... for some reason this thread is sending me email notifications so I'm glad I could help so quickly.

:thumbup:
User avatar
By mr bilko!
#2142792
stephent123 wrote:does the handbrake need adjusting afterwards? With rear brakes i was always under the impression it did.

You shouldn't have to adjust the handbrake and I wouldn't recommend trying to adjust it until you've done a couple of hundred miles to bed them in.

It should be keen from the word go tbh.
#2161573
Help before I bust something – I can not get the piston to retract. :bigcry:

All the usual dodges applied over the past 30 years on other cars seem to have failed (plus I have bust my favourite screwdriver) and so I am off to buy a piston compressor tool. However I am not sure this will work - the piston seems free to turn but will not go back.

I suspect there is a handbrake self adjust mechanism contained within the calliper and has to be released before the piston returns fully. With Mr bilkos helpful pictures – he is not having to compress for the thickness of new pads.

On a separate point – has anyone fitted the latest EBC red stuff and can explain why there a spring clip riveted to only one of the inner pads supplied. The Honda inner pad I removed from the n/s had the clip but the EBC has none. I have not looked at the o/s yet – mr b’s picture suggest there is one

This does not seem a fault in manufacture – there is a photograph within the EBC box which clearly shows one clip and the other three pads have none.

Many thanks

T
User avatar
By TonyCTR
#2163482
Back again & hope everyone has had a good Easter.

I have done it - they say self-help never leaves you stranded! But a number of observations may help others:

* notwithstanding having a large selection of G-clamps to hand as I have, you will be lucky if you can do this without the proper tool. I can confirm the Laser piston rewind tool 1314 currently stocked by Halfords does the trick. I have managed to avoid such an expense for the past 20 years!

* For EBC pads at least you have to wind in the piston as far as it will go if you are ever to stand a chance getting it all back together. Not sure how you could do this with a G-clamp and mole wrench.

* The projecting "spring clips"....in the absence of another explanation, I assume they are to help sight (inner) pad wear. EBC bless their souls believe one only to 4 pads is sufficient whereas Honda have 2.

T
User avatar
By mr bilko!
#2164646
Hi Tony,
Glad you found the guide helpful and I think that the problem you may have encountered might be a case of the piston being a tad awkward when 1st asked to retract.
Over the years (plenty of them too) I've found that these pistons will spin at first but are a bit tight to go back in, then, once it starts to retract they go back with no mither.

The idea behind the small tin plate riveted to the back of a pad is actually what I refer to as a "scraper" and its function is to scrape end on to the disc, with a loud pitched screeching noise, to alert the driver that his/her pads are worn to a pre determined limit. Quite why EBC deem fit to fit this to one pad is beyond me, either that or it's fitted to the softest pad of the set :roll:
User avatar
By stychey
#2224748
just done all mine way easy but i did it the hard way lol i seperated the caliper from the hand brake cable :evil: if only i would have looked at this first
User avatar
By ub302
#2231892
i have a problem,

i tried rewinding the piston back but managed to rip the rubber seals that hold it, it got twisted in the piston than i accidently ripped it trying to put it back,

what should i do?

i asked a mechanic he said to rip it off it aint needed, but another says the brake fluid will leak out

what shall i do?
User avatar
By TonyCTR
#2232656
A tricky one that.....the piston rubber gaiter or boot keeps the crap out of the piston and its seal.

By rights the boot should be replaced and I am not sure if it is easy to get hold of a service kit. They do not like us plebs playing with their cars these days.

How big is the tear and could be repaired by superglue?

As a word of waring to anyone who tries this....the boot can stick on the piston as you try to rotate if it is dry. When I did mine I saw the boot was stuck/twisting so I carefully rotated the piston back/forward little by little until it was free. A dab of brake fluid may have helped.

T
User avatar
By ub302
#2233035
the tear was quite large it actually came off.

theres something else i was gna ask, after a drive my car starts smelling like somethings burning, and the rear wheel that had the rubber gaitor come off from, gets extremely hot, is that normal?
User avatar
By TonyCTR
#2233442
No!

Sounds as though the brake is dragging on that side....did you spin the wheel to check before you took it off the jack?

There is another issue...I had to chip a small rim of rust that had appeared on the outer edge of the disk before I put in the new pads. Though the pads should have an abrasive coating to help them bed to the disk, I reasoned this was big enough to end up grooving the pad. Precaution worked well and the new pads have bedded flat.

T
User avatar
By ub302
#2233589
im gona have to jack it up again and check that.

i done the same thing on both sides, but only one (the one that had the rubber come off) seems to be getting very hot and producing a burnt smell. (now that i think of it, it could be some rubber that has been left in there, i didnt take it off properly) gna go home today and check it out

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