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By mjhamilton
#3011554
replaced all my pads a few days back and these instructions were very useful... no issues at all... some observations and notes

1 - be very careful to remove all springs, shims and clips and used Gunk degreaser to clean so they were all shiny and new again... if you don't have new ones you will need to use these on your new pads otherwise you are in effect modifying your braking system which is not recommended - in most cases not using these parts will make the pads a little loose and you will get squeal - also remember which side and where the parts came from.. try to put the same parts back from the location they came from (I found laying out the new pads on a piece of card and then swapping the parts from the removed pad as it was removed made this easy)

2 - I really like the way Honda have put the pads in the carrier instead of the caliper.. this meant that it was simple to slide the caliper off without having to ease the pads past any lip on the egde of the disk (if you have one) - but the pads can be very tight in the carrier against the disk.. I found using a small open spanner as a lever between the pads and disk moved it out, keep using progressively larger spanners on the top and bottom of each pads and it will eventually drop out

3 - The rears are almost the same to do but you need to remove both top and bottom bolts and use a little force to slide the caliper all the way off the assembly (don't be afraid it feels like it wont move but it will and does)

4 - don't forget to remove the brakepipe retaining screw and suspend the caplier using some string or wire to prevent stress on the pipe

5 - Bought some copper slip in a spray can and coated all the moving parts and contact points, also sprayed some between the shims and pads where they meet the caliper and pistons.... so far no squeaks or noises and the pads a bedding in well after a 100 miles...

6 - remember to remove the resevoir lid and watch the levels.. if your pads are low and you have had a top up or fluid change during a service you will need to remove fluid as you push the piston back in.. for me I replaced all four corners and the level was on the low marker.. I had to remove some as I went along and now the level sits in the max marker

7 - push the piston back in slowly.. forcing it back in to fast can damage the master cyliner or risk it not going back in square and damage the caliper - rear cylider needs to be twisted clockwise whilst gently pushed

8 - take your time.. it is not a race.. these a brakes and a few extra minutes can really make a difference - remember you should havbe NO parts left over at the end of the job except for the old pads :bigthumb:
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By chappers51
#3862560
When sliding the calliper up, what about the pin on the back of the pad that goes on the inside of the disc? Isn't it suppose to be located inside the piston?

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