The largest Civic Type R club forum

Established in 2002 it brings together people from all over the world to discuss their one love of Type R's.

User avatar
By dieselpower
#123365
Here's my 'How To' guide on replacing the front brake pads. It is a fairly easy job (takes me 10-15 mins per side) but if you don't know what you are doing leave it to your Honda dealer!! The braking system is a vital part of the car so if in doubt don't do it!


Tools Required

Image

Alloy wheel lock nut key
19mm wheel brace
12mm socket and ratchet handle
19mm open ended spanner
8mm open ended spanner (not essential)
Trolley jack, axel stands and a piece of 4x2
Copper grease
Brake calliper rewind tool (not essential)
A piece of rope/string/cord
New brake pads

Step 1

Image
Slacken wheel nuts on both wheels

Image
Place piece of 4x2 behind rear wheels
Ensure handbrake is tightly on

Step 2

Image
Locate jack under jacking point behind front bumper
Raise the car

Image
Place axel stands under side jacking point and slowly lower car onto stands

Step 3

Remove road wheel and store safely

Image
Remove brake fluid hose retaining bolt

Image
Remove bottom calliper bolt. If bolt spins use 19mm spanner to hold nut on next to rubber boot

Image
Rotate calliper up and tie to suspension securely making sure not to strain fluid hose

Step 4

Image
Slide old pads out of calliper. An 8mm open ended spanner can be used to help ease the pads out. Take care not to damage the disc

Image
Remove the metal shims for the pads. There are two on one pad and one on the other. Clean these with an old rag

Step 5

Image
Push piston fully into calliper. If you don’t have a rewind tool you can use a G-clamp or with a lot of force push the piston with your hands. Make sure to support the back of the calliper as not to damage it

Image

Step 6

Image
Add an even coat of copper grease to the back of the new pads

Image
Refit the metal shims adding an even coat of copper grease to each shim
Make sure to get no grease on the friction material or brake disc

Image
Fit new pads into calliper

Image
Untie rope and lower calliper over the new pads

Step 7

Image
Replace 12mm bolt into calliper and tighten

Image
Replace 12mm bolt into fluid hose bracket and tighten
Replace road wheel and gently tighten wheel nuts

Step 8

Repeat steps 1 to 7 for other side of car

Step 9

Raise car slightly and remove axel stands
Slowly car to the ground
Torque wheel nuts to correct level

Step 10

Image
Check brake fluid level in reservoir and ensure it’s between min and max.
Replace reservoir cap
Pump brake pedal until pedal feels firm again

Step 11

Clean hands and make cup of tea
Admire your handy work! :D

Step 12

Roadtest the car to ensure everything is ok. Make sure to follow bedding-in instructions supplied with the pads. Applying full braking force to new pads can damage and warp your discs.

Hope this helps!! Anyone in the Fife area needing their pads changed I'll be happy to do it for them.

Andrew
User avatar
By JTT
#123380
Great write up mate.

Just one thing, just noticed the metal shims are still attached to my old pads (in my boot) will this be a problem? :oops:
User avatar
By EvoStu
#123401
Bloody brilliant that mate! Nice one! 8)

EvoStu.
User avatar
By dieselpower
#123487
JTT, they are for anti-vibration/squeeling and it gives the piston something smoother to push against. If you've no problems I wouldn't worry about it and just refit them when you next have the wheel off. Don't throw them out though!! :D

Stu - any chance of making this a sticky??!! ;)

Andrew
User avatar
By EvoStu
#123498
dieselpower wrote:Stu - any chance of making this a sticky??!! ;)

Andrew
Of course! Done. :wink:

EvoStu.
User avatar
By jamesmckelvie
#123982
Fantastic detail mate thanks, how long did your originals last?
User avatar
By dieselpower
#124085
Originals lasted 15,500 miles mate. There was a bit of friction material left on them but not much. One pad had a crack from top to bottom :shock:

Pads were replaced for Ferodo DS2500s from the group buys section. Already the pedal feels sharper and the car pulls up quicker (oh, and with the discount they are cheaper than stock!! :D)

Andrew
User avatar
By mr bilko!
#132922
Nice write up and pics mate, well done!

Was thinking of doing this "How to" but pc's on its last legs (new one next week :lol: )

I'll do the rears in a couple of weeks as a "how to"
User avatar
By G.
#132951
Excellent job there dude......
User avatar
By MarcusTypeR
#263907
Superb instructions - only took 30 mins from start to finish - undoing the fluid hose definitely makes the job easier and removing and refitting is simplicity itself!!!!

Cheers

Marcus
User avatar
By dieselpower
#264385
Glad they helped mate :D

It really is one of the simplist brake systems to work on :)
User avatar
By ibdrew
#769629
:D as both a new type r owner and registered member of the club, thanks a lot for your great instructions. my 03 plate20.000 mls is coming up due a service, thanks to your advice I might tackle the pads myself.
ps, loads of family in lochgelly anywhere close to you.
User avatar
By martin
#769755
15 minutes away, in a ford :lol: 10 in the civic. Used this how to job done in 30 minutes, most of the time spent cleaning the wheels. 8)
User avatar
By bossdrums
#811602
Thanks a lot for the info, have just changed my front pads, went for standard pads from dealer at £45.......easy job, my dealer was trying to charge me £60 labour, claiming it was a 3/4 hour job....I just did them both in half an hour........without professional equipment like lifts etc.....just using the standard jack and a couple of bricks......easy !!
User avatar
By dieselpower
#811864
Nice one mate, always good to save £60! :D
User avatar
By mini_ron
#865141
Nice "how to"

found it v helpful, doing the fronts tonight if its not raining!
User avatar
By S.T
#877681
Cheers for the info. It was a big help.
User avatar
By dieselpower
#878976
:thumbup:
User avatar
By R-Mann
#887996
Does anyone know the recommended torque setting for the calliper mounting bolts? I'm looking at doing mine this weekend as the dealer wants £92+ for doing the job I thought I might as well do it myself and have money left ova for a good night out! :lol: :wink:
User avatar
By dieselpower
#888756
Tight but not mentally tight is what I go for, I tend only to torque the wheel nuts - sorry :)

Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]