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#2291512
Great Guide, did mine last week - Although There are definitely 2 screws when you remove the ashtray, so remember to take those out, and removing the sill trim was easy, just pull on it theres standard trim clips holding it on, theres a duct where the speaker cable for the rear passenger side speaker runs, so ran the power cable along there and duct taped it down and fed it under the rear quarter trim to the rear seat. Theres also 2 clips (One either side in each footwell) that holds the centre console to the dash part that you have to push in from the other side to release, you can reuse them.
All in all though a great guide, would have taken much much longer without it! Thanks. :thumbup:
#2296561
I have a good add on for that guide....

pay a specialist who knows what they are doing to do it :badrazz:

sorry couldnt resist... but so many people out there think they can do a good job by following a few guides from the net. I find people with manuals are dangerous things!!
#2296592
People with manuals who cant read are a dangerous thing. if the manual is correct, and you have a little DIY sence, there is no point in paying over the odds to get a "specialist" to do it. maybe he as an off day or cant be arsed and dosnt insulate a cable properly. i would rather do it myself. If i break something, i learn for the mistake and do it right next time - problem solved, money saved, job well done
#2321143
well, I used the guide and it worked fine for me. Took me 2 days to strip and fit a full system. Was hard work, and i messed up a few times, but saved me a lot of money.

That said on something so large i would probably pay someone next time. I only did it that time as I knew the inards of a CTR well enough :-)
#2338196
the file has a .doc extension meaning that it has a Microsoft Word format. This doesnt mean you need MS Office to open is however. You can download a Word viewer to open the file, but you wont be able to edit it, if you want to make any changes or notes as you read it. Your best bet is to download Open Office from http://www.openoffice.org/ this is an open source peice of software meaning its completely free. It is a full Office suite and will open, edit and create documents, spreadsheets, databases etc all in Microsoft format. I strongly recommend it, i have used it for years and its excellent. :)
#2351789
Followed this guide to fit:
1, A new headunit, - also used the 'installing handsfree kit' guide for this part
2, A pair of component speakers in the front doors
3, Power cables
4, A sub in the boot.

For me the component speakers in the doors was by far the biggest job, installing dynamat and running quality speaker cable through the door grommets into the cabin (painful jobs). And when you finish one door it's time to start again on the other one!!! I used only 1 sheet of extreme dynamat split in half for each door, covering the mounting area and the outer panel behind the speaker only. This seems to have been sufficient as the sound is good. I'm sure if you use more you can do better but how much benefit you get is uncertain. I would leave the white plastic skin intact unless you plan to cover every hole with dynamat.
I also created home made mdf spacers, mine were 24mm thick. (2x9mm 1x4mm) mdf sheets sandwiched together.
This made a recess large enough for my Alpine type G components without cutting any metal. I also trimmed back the plastic ring on the doorcard which fits around the speaker to eliminate any possibility of fouling.

Just to verify previous posts: There are two screws hidden behind the ashtray for removing centre-console which are not in the guide.
The back of the facelift ctr rear seats require drilling unless you posess super human strength, they are metal.
To remove the front half of the centre console (fully) you do have to remove a front seat. However it's only 4 bolts to do this and makes installing an amp under the passener seat much easier. There is a guide on here for installing different carpet which goes into detail on this.

Thanks for the guide it was a brilliant help overall.
#2367396
Cheers for the guide gringosteve! I used it as an Uninstall guide :P

I've seen a few people asking the same question that I had earlier so I'll give a brief answer in case anyone else looks here.

If you need to remove the inside door sill there are three little clips just like every other bit of interior trim. Gently push a flat head screwdriver (with the head protected with masking tape or something) under the sill around these areas and work it up. The clips should start to pop and you will notice more play in the sill. Then its just a case of working around the whole piece until it comes free. You may need to undo the metal bracket that the seatbelt is attached to at the bottom.

Green circles are where the clips are. The blue arrow shows where its been prised up a little already. Hope this helps anyone with similar probs!

Image

When putting the sill back in place you will need to apply substancial force to get the clips to pop back in. They will go in but be careful not to snap anything!

ps- not my car in pic. stolen from Google.
#2406903
this is a great guide,have already used it to fit my headunit and will be using it again for my componants,hopefully this weekend ! (weather permitting as usual) !!
#2427323
Good guide, thanks :) Done the majority of fitting sub + amp this afternoon.

It's dark now, so haven't time to fully finish.

How do you earth the amp? I can see the picture, and where it shows to earth it, but I can't find a screw to fit? What size should it be?

Cheers
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