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By Nicko11
#1926052
elfman wrote:Ok im new to modding civic but in my focus i ran the pwoer and audio down seperate sides of the car as in power down teh left and speaker down the right.. is this possible by just pushing the wires under on the drivers side as well?
This is recommended by good audio installers because it helps to prevent any interferance with the audio leads.
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By econetcarrier
#1960496
Don't know as I've heard that the driver's side is a right pain. but i ran my RCA and speakers cables down the centre console route and did this without removing the front seats (due to lack of garage and drive) and when you eventually do it this way you'll see that it would be easier than removing panels down the driver's side.
One last thing, if screwing AMPS into the back seat, on facelift CTR's the back of the seat is metal not wood. you can unzip them to see where to drill.
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By boltonT
#1974494
Thanks for those involved in creating this guide.

Its been really handy while I have been fitting the audio in the new CTR.

Thanks guys!
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By gringosteve
#2013011
Sorry guys...i didn't have the time to keep my DJ site up and running and it was hosted on there. I didnt renew my contract so it was killed off :-(

I have now placed it as a file attachment so it is available again. I have updated a few bits based on feedback and updated the layout a bit...its still a bit rough but does the job. Its zipped up so you'll need winzip or similar to view it.

If anyone wants to contribute just let me know.

Thanks for the cool feedback..im sure all the people who added the individual bits are as chuffed as I am that it is still getting used..

Steve
User avatar
By gringosteve
#2013035
N.Styles wrote:Hi,

I've a couple of points to make after using this guide. Whilst most info is spot on there are some points completely
missing, resulting in a nice 3 inch crack in my front center console. Cheers! :stfu:

Page 28 of the stereofitting.doc fails to mention you need to remove the 2 hidden screws behind the pull out fag tray below the gearstick. This is where I got the nice crack from down the passenger side.

The guide also fails to mention you need to take out a front seat in order to remove the front center console completely.
It's impossible otherwise because the handbrake is in the way.

Sometimes I think these guides are written by Honda spare parts staff deliberately missing vital info just so you have to pay them a visit. :-x
Sorry to hear your problems. I had no issue when i followed this guide, i didn't need to take out the seats, but cannot remember if I pushed the wires through without removing the front section of the console. I have added a warning to the guide at this point. I no longer own a CTR so cannot try it.
User avatar
By gringosteve
#2013078
nes_welsh wrote:Hi Guys,
The install guide look fantastic. But I do have 2 questions (newbi ones I know):
1. When you are running the power cable down the side of the car how did you remove the cover below the glove box to get at the power cable (that you poked through the gromit)? I can see 2 bolts attatching it where the hinge for the glove box is and thats it. Do I just remove these 2?
2. How do you run the speaker cable into the door? (again I know its a newbi question but im not sure)
Im hoping to fit my speakers and amd this weekend :).
Rainbow SLC265 speakers and a HERTZ 4 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER :)

Thanks for any help guys
Neil

Im not sure how to do point 1...i just pushed the wires through, and I had a proper big wire too..!


The cover below the glove box just pulls out from memory... Ihavent got a civic anymore though

No need to run a speaker cable through the door, as the guide says you can reuse the orginal cables..they wire all the way up to your headunit loom already, just plug them into the headunit ISO adapter, then cut the adapter wires and wire them to the output from your amp. So basically you feed your output from the new stereo into the amp, and the output from the amp into the ISO wires that connect to the original speaker wires.

You probably loose a very very very small amount of quality, but it is so much easier, and sounded perfect on my system - and I have had a lot of ICE systems.

I know this is a very late reply but may help people in the future?
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By gringosteve
#2013084
Sincx wrote:Same stuff here dude, haven't had a go with installing my ICE yet as I was trying to find as much info as I could so I reduce the chance of breaking stuff to a minimum. But still alot of info missing to be honest.
It'ain't on the forum and can't find the shizzle on the web neither. Maybe I'll give Honda a ring for some pdf's.

This guide is nice btw, gives a rough idea but alot to it is missing :scratch:.

There are a few little bits missing which i will endeavour to search for. I really wish i could take photos myself but i no longer own the car. It just shows how I took the various parts apart. The main bits missing are:

Interior sill plastic removal
Rear plastic removal
Glovebox cowel removal (very easy though)
Steering wheel cowel removal (very easy)
How to wire an amp to a stereo etc, and ISO fitting

Two mins of searching found me the sercice manual for the EP3...its a copyrighted document which should not be downloaded/or bought and cannot be distributed on here

It shows the locations of the screws for the interior sills, but with very little description as to how to strip it still. I think if you had the diagram and big balls you could do it and take pics..
#2073407
really well detailed guide. i had a nightmare job though. decided to use mdf, brought the right size fusion speakers, until i got them outa the box, they were like subs at the back really chunky, no return as they were ebay specials! i'd have to use 25mm spacer to get them to fit in which would mean driving with the door open.. so i brought some scrawnier infinity speakers, i no there not great, but i'm not mark ronson, and music isn't that big a deal, just had to get rid of those pap standard speakers. even with the scrawnier speakers i still had trouble getting the basket to sit in the puny hole, :bad-words: i trimmed round the edges slightly and they now sit lovely. lesson learned i've done quite a few car audio tasks and this was by far the worst. i wana get the fusion speakers in the back now but can't find the guide, with a how to
#2084465
:thumbup: Thanks for the guide very useful on the removal of stereo. :thumbup:

Fitted my Sony Bluetooth (very good:) :WOOT head unit tonight and it all worked a treat!!

Only differences;

I had a problem with the top part of the dash as the cable for the heater appear to be wrapped around the frame (part you loosen the two screws) but eventually managed to remove the connector (few cuts and grazes) and have now relocated the path of the cable so it will be easier next time.

Other thing was I removed the little strut bar (only a couple of screws) and easy to move and found it easier to leaver out the console.

Thanks Again, will post some pics soon.

Jizz...........
#2190397
Any ideas on running better cable into the doors. I know it's been said as unnecessary but my focal speakers really do recommend it and i've got it now, so...

I've got no problems reaching the end of the rubber grommet that exits into the door but when i drop the glovebox down i still can't see where the other end of the grommet enters the car :scratch: allot of stuff in the way - don't tell me that I have to dismount a load of stuff to get at the entrance point?

also, now i've taken the door cards off and wants to put sound insulation all over the door, i've noticed that in some areas i don't think that would be a good idea - for example where the screws are for mounting the door handle part of the door card.
I see allot of pictures of car doors on the net where they have secondskinned everywhere (making it possible to not need putting back of the piece of plastic sheet (waterproofing) with the chewing gum like sealant) but don't think that i'm going to be able to do this on the civic? and will have to just insulate as much as i can but have to put back the white plastic sheet anyway?

Lastly - on the door cards, what is that largish foam moulding that is stuck on it - it pokes into a recess in that white plastic sheet i was talking about and into the door... do i need to keep it?
#2196831
i guess nobody really active on EP3 installations anymore but i've answered my own questions while doing mine. I'll post here to help out anyone doing their's now or later ..

You can get cables through from the door into the car through the original rubber grommet. You have to detach the cable conduit from inside the door that goes off into the car. In this way you can then lift up the rubber grommet to make it a bit straighter and then wiggle a cable into it, pushing it in towards the car. With patience and wiggling it will come out the the other end (in the car). Then you can pull through.

You should stick sound insulation everywhere so as to close all holes in the door. Obviously stay away from the screw mounting points.

If you stick insulation everywhere you should take the foam moulding off the door cards.
#2200436
Hey guys I would really appreciate a copy - how should I contact am planning to replace all speakers in the next week or two :'(
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Long time ago I had and Ep3 for 220k kilometers in[…]