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By Lewis.
#3783586
Nice car mate and nicely executed write up! Keep it coming. Check out my blog it's similar you may find it interesting.

Lewis
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By AdamB92
#3783589
RM CYA wrote:Like the wheel colour.

Chain tensioner, stick to Honda rather than toda
Cheers mate, its a shame its starting to flake :(
What's the reason you say stick to the Honda tensioner? I thought they were the weak link in the system?
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By AdamB92
#3783590
Lewis. wrote:Nice car mate and nicely executed write up! Keep it coming. Check out my blog it's similar you may find it interesting.

Lewis
Appreciate that buddy, will be trying to document everything I do as it helps me keep track of what I've done and yet to do lol.

I'll check yours out bud, sounds like you've done a fair bit!
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By RM CYA
#3783606
After being spanked, bounced off the limiter and crazy down changes for 100k miles are you surprised? Try getting decent mileage out of a toda one :wink:
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By AdamB92
#3783735
Agree with that mate, I just heard that OEM Honda ones lose their tension and the spring inside is quite weak so the Toda and other aftermarket ones use a stiffer rate spring to stop this happening.
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By AdamB92
#3783967
Well my new rear calipers have arrived, cracking service I must say, ordered them yesterday and recieved them today.

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Even kind enough to drop some grease in there as well :)

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Also had a bit of debating today about what brake fluid to get, after reading about racing fluids that require changing more often because there more susceptible to absorbing moisture I decided to just go for a a performance DOT 4 which should do the trick for road use.

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Some ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid, has the nice added touch of being dyed blue in colour so when you flush the system you know when you have fresh fluid coming through. I will probably alternate between this and something like Motul RBF600 as I wouldn't mind doing the occasional track day. Managed to pick up the ATE stuff from Euro car parts on offer for only £10 for a litre and it seems to get good reviews. Dry boiling point of 280 degrees and a wet boiling point of 198 degrees. According to ATE its good for a 3 year period however I would stick to changing every 18 months due to the significant decrease in dry and wet boiling points.

Hoping to fit the new calipers and brake fluid flush Thursday/Friday, hopefully before the car goes in to get the rear end repaired :)
Also me being anal I've now decided I really want to get some new front calipers as well :lol:
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By AdamB92
#3783984
They were from Brakes International, here mate : http://www.brakesint.co.uk/
They were £69 each, plus a surcharge of £36 each, but when you send your old ones back you obviously get that surcharge refunded. I think it works out about £138 for both rear calipers, I checked ebay and for a pair on there they are going for around the £180 mark and you never know who your dealing with.
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By AdamB92
#3784434
So today I got round to fitting my new rear calipers, I will probably try and do a little how to guide as I noticed there isn't anything in that section of the forum regarding rear calipers and seeing as these cars aren't getting any younger it is no doubt a common problem and will help a few people out tackle the job themselves as it's not at all difficult :)

I do apologise for some of the pictures as it was quite sunny today and trying to get the camera to focus properly was proving to be a challenge in itself.

So first thing to do was to get the rear of the car jacked up and secure on axle stands with the wheels off.

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Once the car is jacked up, reach inside and removed these screws from the handbrake console (note there is one on the other side as well)

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Once that is done, remove the handbrake console and you shall be greated with the handbrake cables

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Take your trusty 12mm spanner and loosen (anti clockwise) the centre nut fixing,

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You should loosen it a fair amount as I shall explain later, something so that it looks like this

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I then removed the handbrake cable from the caliper, I did this by using a 1/2 socket extension and pushing down on the lever, this allowed me to push it down far enough and with the help of the slack cable from what I loosened off in the cabin to just pull the cable away from the caliper.

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The last part for the cable is that its bracket is bolted to the caliper, so lay down and you will see these 2 bolts holding the bracket to the caliper. A 12mm socket and an extension on a ratchet will get these removed nicely.

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That's everything to do with the handbrake removed :)

That just leaves to remove the caliper mounting bolts. Once those are removed the caliper may be a bit stuck in place, just took a flatblade screwdriver to pry the caliper away from the pads

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Note I left the fluid line on the caliper because I wanted to get everything transfered onto the new caliper and that all bolted up to reduce the air getting in the system, so just tuck the caliper to the back on the rear control arm.

Just for my sake of being OCD I decided to check how much meat I had left on the discs and pads so I measured them up with a vernier caliper

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And the disc measurement

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So there was plenty of life left in them, the discs were still reading 10mm thickness and the pads had loads of life left in them yet so quite pleased with that.

Then it was time to pull the sliders out, out came the top, not looking too shabby.

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By AdamB92
#3784443
Then came the bottom, and a nice surprise!

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And the cause of all this

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So I then resorted to trying to clean it up to get it fairly flat and smooth, took some 800 grit wet and dry paper and removed most of the crap that was on there, then finished up with a 1500 grit

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I forgot to grab a pic of when it was cleaned up, it came out okay but there was plenty of pitting on the pin so its something I'll replace when it next comes to replacing the discs and pads, I managed to grease the pin up and get it sliding fairly well and I also got new rubber boots with the calipers so I put them on as well.

Once the pins were back in it was time to start assembling the new caliper, so I took the anti rattle plate from the old caliper, gave it a good scrub with a wire brush and fitted into the new caliper.

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After that it was a case of bolting up wht handbrake cable bracket to the caliper and putting the caliper back on over the pads and fastening down torqueing the bolts to 23 Nm.

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Once that was done and secure it was time to put the cable back on the caliper level, this is where slacking off the cable in the cabin a lot really helps as the lever on the new calipers is very stiff, meaning that I was able to pull the cable a fair amount whilst only having to push on the lever a little. Using the same method as before using a 1/2 socket extension, push the lever and slip the cable onto the arm.

Last part was to quickly remove the banjo bolt that feeds the caliper of brake fluid, quickly replace the crush washers, one on either side of the banjo fitting and tighten down into the new caliper.

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Then stand back and admire your handy work [smilie=karls_thumb.gif]

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Then it was a case of repeating for the other side. Didn't grab many pictures of the other side, both sliders were fine on that side and the disc and pads had plenty of life in them as well.

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However all was going too well for something not to happen, and well it did. The very last part, the very last bolt, when torqueing up decided to do this :sad: :sad:

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What had happened was the lock nut on the bottom of my torque wrench had come loose, so effectively it was torqueing the bolt to infinity, and it has stretched the bolt that much during tightening it actually pulled it and cracked between the threads. Very very lucky to get away with it not snapping in the slider and having to drill it out or replace the slider pin. Quickly ran down to Honda in hope they would have one at 4:15pm and to my luck they didn't, so I ordered one in that will be here tomorrow and I can put that last bolt in, torque it up and then bleed the brakes and adjust the handbrake.
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By AdamB92
#3784894
Overdue update,
Went to Honda and got my new caliper mounting bolt

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And this is what happens when you over tighten a bolt

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It had stretched around 3mm and caused the bolt to crack in the threads.

After that I bled the brakes with the ATE super blue fluid and had a bit of a problem, the new caliper bleed nipples were seeping out fluid from where it screws into the calipers, oddly enough the nipple never actually screwed right into the thread and there was still a significant amount of the bleed nipple sticking out. So not only was fluid leaking out, but it was also letting air in when depressing the brake pedal. So I swapped over the nipples from the old calipers and they fitted snug, used up all the threads and no more leaks and no more air. When I compared the new and old nipples, the new one had a slightly longer snout as it where and the threads travelled a little further down the bolt so this is what was causing it to not seat correctly. Bit annoyed with the fact that I purchased refurbed calipers and they sent out bleed nipples which aren't even for the right application so I'm going to send them a letter/email to explain what has happened and make them aware of what they are doing. Not exactly the end of the world as it was a case of just swapping them over, but I shouldn't have to with new calipers.

Also managed to finally get hold of some washer jet rubbers so I could fit the Jazz jets.

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Ready to be fitted

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Now on the car, literally takes 30 seconds to swap them over, great improvement over the stock ones so very pleased :)

I'm now on the hunt for some new front brakes as when I was bleeding them I wasn't happy with the wear levels they were at, so I mainly use the car for the road but would like to possibly get on track once the timing chain has been replaced (hopefully in around a months time when the car is back from the body shop). I've decided I'm just going to go for some OEM Brembo discs, but a bit stuck as to which pads, I've heard RedStuff wear very quickly and take the discs with them, so thats them out. I'm torn between Ferodo DS2500 or the Mintex 1144's or 1155's. The brakes at the moment are nice and responsive since changing the fluid, but they have no bite to them what so ever, putting this down to wear levels or possibly glazed pads.
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By AdamB92
#3784907
Read the brake pads thread on here and someone said they are utter crap.
Also wondering about Yellowstuff as well? Although I am kinda swaying towards the Ferodo's at the moment.
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By AdamB92
#3784959
Cheers Lewis. I'm not heavy on the brakes really as I use a lot of engine braking so not sure whether I would benefit with not getting the pads hot enough. What other pads have you tried mate?
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By AdamB92
#3784964
So I've heard mate, but it seems most people with CTR recommend the DS2500, owners of some other cars say their not all that or they moan about the squeeling or dust levels.
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By shaRRpy
#3784965
On my last ep3 I had yellow stuff with braided hoses and uprated fluid and they were great for road use,not bad on dust deposit and good bite from cold with no squeal.also used them on track and found them great and never had any brake fade. However I've heard other people don't rate them,but can't fault them myself.
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